Blogging about Japan blogs

It’s always nice to hear about other people and their experiences in Japan. Everyone’s Japan experience is different. So, heres a few examples of our customers trips from over the last year, expressed using various forms of social media, sharing some great travel tales, tips and pictures. 

 

Emma Prew

One of my favourites was from Emma Prew. Emma put together this great blog which details her whole trip from place-to-place adding some great photos….at 4000 plus photos, she has more to show. Loads of great detail.

Emma Prew

Emma Prew

Emma Prew

 

 

Jose and Linaka

Jose Guerra and his partner, Linaka, travelled back in March. They spent 3 weeks in Japan ticking some of the ‘must-see’ sights across the country. Unusually, this couple both kept great blogs as they travelled, using some great pictures of food, culture, art and architecture and giving some interesting opinion on their experiences. Great pictures from Linaka’s Geisha makeover too.

 

 

Ema Harris

If its pictures you want for an idea of what goes on, on an InsideJapan Tours tailored trip, Ema Harris posted several sets of pictures back in November on Facebook and kept some fun pictures on Instagram recording their experiences. Taking in places such as Kamakura, Osaka, Miyajima and Tokyo, and it looks like they had lots of fun with plenty of neon, food and drink.

Ema Harris

Ema Harris

Ema Harris

 

Kerry Wohlstein

One of our US customers, Kerry Wohlstein travelled with Karen back in the spring. Looks like they got the cherry blossom at its peak and perfect views of Mt Fuji from their hotel in Kawaguchi-ko.

 

Nigel Hooper

Nigel Hooper has travelled with us several times and has just spent some time travelling in Kyushu. Take a look at his Flickr page here.

There are some great photos on here including images from the mysterious Gunkanjima, Dazaifu and the Shinkansen depot near Fukuoka.

 

 

Darren Cummings

Darren Cummings recorded his time on the ‘Japan Unmasked’ tour last year with lots of great photos, including lots of pictures of monkey in Yudanaka.

 

 

Think Global School

And for something a bit different, an alternative school called, Think Global School have been spending a chunk of time seeing some fantastic places and doing some amazing experiences and logging them on the Think Global website. Loved reading about their experiences in the Kumano Kodo.

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Always nice to read about our clients and their time in Japan. I highly recommend taking a look at the blogs.

Thanks for sharing you lot!

An Introduction to Birding in Japan

Covering a total of 377,708 sq kms, Japan is three times larger than England. Located between 24° to 46° north latitude and from 123° to 146° east longitude, the island chain covers a wide climatic range: from the boreal climate zone in the north to the sub-tropical zone in the south. It also spans two ecological lines; the Blakiston’s Line (between Hokkaido and Honshu) and the Watase ‘s Line in the south.

Because of these rather unique geographical and ecological backgrounds, Japan’s avifauna is extremely diverse and interesting. 

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More than 600 species have been recorded to date with around 60 being endemic or sub-regional endemic. The actual number of endemic species ranges from 12-23, depending on the source. These include the Copper Pheasant, Japanese Woodpecker, Japanese Scops Owl, Okinawa Rail, Amami Woodcock, Ryukyu Serpeant Eagle, Lidith’s Jay, Bonin Honeyeater and Japanese Skylark. However, most of Japan’s birds are migratory, with more than 60 percent being seasonal visitors.

When and where to go:

Hokkaido

Despite still being covered in snow and temperatures sometimes dropping below -15 degrees centigrade, Hokkaido in February is a birder’s paradise, with the chance to view up close the iconic Red-crowned cranes and the magnificent Steller’s Sea Eagles. If you look in the right places you might also see the Blakiston’s Fish Owl, White-tailed Eagles, the Ural Owl, Harlequin Ducks and Slaty-backed Gulls.

Honshu-Hokkaido Ferry

The rich waters of the north Pacific are a seabird fanatic’s paradise. On a good day on the ferry between these two islands you can see an exciting selection of seabirds including three species of albatross, rare species of storm petrels, aucs, Ancient Murrelet, Pacific Loon, Band-rumped Swinhoe’s and Streaked Shearwater. Check on what species are present at specific times of the year before you come.

White Tailed on drift ice

Hakata Bay

Hakata Bay, near the city of Fukuoka at the north of Kyushu, is another seabird fanatic’s winter paradise. It’s possible to see 100 species in a day as the bay supports an incredible 70,000 wintering birds. Look out for Baikel Teal, Black-faced Spoonbills and Pacific Loon. Summer in Hakata Bay is a great time to see a wide range of shorebirds including Little Curlew, Asian Dowitcher and Nordmann’s Greenshank.

Arasaki

With over 10,000 birds present between December and February, the paddy fields of Arasaki are home to one the most impressive gatherings of cranes in the world.  The area in the Kagoshima prefecture, southern Kyushu, hosts around 8,000 Hooded and 2000 White-naped cranes, as well as a number of other wintering and other seasonal and non-seasonal birds. These include the Ural Owl, Crested Kingfisher, grosbeaks, Japanese Skylark, Copper Pheasant and many, many more!

Bird spotting in Japan

Tokyo area

Even in and around this world famous metropolis, it’s possible to see a wide range of birds. The Lotus Pond (Shinobazunoike) at Ueno Park is home or occasional home to many birds including Northern Pintail, Common Pochard, Asian Spot-billed Ducks, Ring-necked Duck, American Wigeon and Lesser Scaup.

Tokyo Port Wild Bird Park near Haneda Airport has a number of hides and is well worth a visit. The area hosts a large number waterfowl and waders including Long-billed Dowitcher and Pied Avocet.

Japan is a birders paradise. Happy Twitching!

Richard Pearce and the members of this year’s Winter Highlights tour recorded a number of beautiful and exciting birds. These included Red-crowned Crane, Steller’s Sea Eagle, White-tailed Eagle, Ural Owl (Hokkaido sub-species), Harlequin Duck and Slaty-backed Gull.

 

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My Favourite Places in Japan

As my time in Japan nears its end I thought I’d share with you some of my favourite places I’ve visited over the past eight months. Ranging from Okinawa in the far south to the peaks of Nagano, I think these places really demonstrate the diversity that Japan has to offer, and explain what keeps people coming back year upon year.

Once you’ve seen my favourite places so far, take a look at my wish list of the amazing places I have yet to visit in Japan. They’ll have to wait until next time for me – but hopefully they’ll inspire you to work some of them into your own plans!

My Top 5 Favourite places in Japan:

1. Okunion cemetery, Koya-san (Wakayama Prefecture)

No photo can do justice to the atmosphere of this vast and amazing place, tucked away in the mountains near Osaka. Despite it being recognised as a world heritage site, as I wandered around Okunoin I often felt as though I was the only person there – a very rare and wonderful occasion when travelling in Japan! If you can, visit early in the morning when the mists are still swirling.

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3. Kabira Bay, Ishigaki Island (Okinawa Prefecture)

Pack your snorkel, hop on the next 3-hour flight from Tokyo and check into the wonderful Iriwa guesthouse – a little bit of paradise in Japan’s southernmost prefecture. It may be budget-friendly, but the couple who run this beautiful, beachside guesthouse have thought of everything to make your stay in Ishigaki as relaxing as possible, and there can be no better backdrop to a holiday than the stunning views to be found just down the road at Kabira Bay. You’ll never want to leave.

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4. Hakuba Ski Resort (Nagano Prefecture)

As a keen skier perhaps I’m biased – but for me, three days in Hakuba was the perfect start to the New Year. Brilliant powder snow followed by a soak in an onsen – what’s not to love? And if (for some reason) you were to get bored of skiing, you can just hop on a bus and go to visit the snow monkeys at Yudanaka Onsen.

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4. Bizan District, Kurashiki (Okayama Prefecture)

I visited Kurashiki just a couple of weeks ago on a research trip for InsideJapan Tours and was enchanted by its mixture of Western and Eastern architecture, its beautiful canals, and its wonderful museums. Every visitor must be sure not to miss the Ohara Museum, the Rural Toy Museum and (for the young at heart) the Momotaro Museum – and if you get the chance, spend the night at the unparalleled Ryokan Kurashiki!

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5. The Dream Hole, Onna-son, Okinawa Island (Okinawa Prefecture)

On one of my last days in Okinawa, I was lucky enough to have the chance to dive at this 25-metre underwater tunnel, where a living curtain of fish swirls in the entrance and parts to let you pass as you swim through the entrance. On the same dive I even got the chance to swim with sea turtles – a pretty amazing experience!

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My Wish List Top Five:

1. Yakushima Island (Kagoshima Prefecture)

My biggest regret as I reach the end of my time in Japan is that I never managed to make it to Yakushima Island in Kagoshima Prefecture. As a big Miyazaki fan I can’t help but wish that I could visit the place that inspired “Princess Mononoke,” where you can hike amongst Japanese cedar trees several thousand years old and even camp on beaches where baby Loggerhead turtles hatch and make their way to the see. Next time.

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Jomon Sugi: perhaps the oldest tree in the world

Jomon Sugi: perhaps the oldest tree in the world

2. Hokkaido

Hokkaido, Japan’s northernmost island, rarely makes it onto the itineraries of first-time travellers to Japan (unless they’re going skiing in Niseko!). But everybody I know who has visited Hokkaido has been enchanted by its wonderful countryside, making me sad that I haven’t had time to visit it before I leave. I’ve promised myself that one day I’ll make it to the Sapporo Yuki Matsuri (snow festival) to see some of the amazing sculptures for myself.

hokkaido

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3. Takeda Castle (Hyogo Prefecture)

Takeda Castle is known as “the castle above the clouds” – for reasons that should be obvious when you see the amazing photos of it perched on top of a mountain, wreathed in mist. Yet another amazing place to add to my wish list.

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4. Yonaguni Ruins(?), Yonaguni Island (Okinawa Prefecture)

Located under the sea off the coast of what is perhaps Japan’s remotest island are – well, nobody really knows what they are. Are they naturally occurring rock formations, the ruins of some unknown civilisation, or the works of aliens? (Hint: it was probably aliens). The underwater structures appear strikingly regular, leading many people to believe that they are man-made. If they are, then they indicate a hitherto completely unknown civilisation that could have existed twice as long ago as the ancient Egyptians. Now that would be pretty cool.

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5. Dogo Onsen, Matsuyama (Ehime Prefecture)

Another location inspired by my love for Miyazaki films, Dogo Onsen is the oldest bath house in Japan and is rumoured to have been the inspiration for the bath house in “Spirited Away” – one of the films that first inspired my love of Japan. And not only do I love Spirited Away, but I am also a huge fan of onsens – so Dogo Onsen was always naturally going to make it onto my wish list.

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And finally, somewhere I wish I’d visited before it became a tourist destination…

Gunkanjima (Nagasaki Prefecture)

Gunkanjima, or “battleship island,” was once the most densely populated area in the world when it thrived as a coal-mining facility. Now it is an amazingly creepy, abandoned wasteland – empty except for Javier Bardem, who kicks about thinking evil thoughts and plotting the demise of his enemies. Not really.

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There was a time when you could make your way out to Gunkanjima alone and explore it for yourself (albeit not exactly legally), but now it’s more strictly controlled and you can only visit with a guided tour that keeps you on the straight and narrow – away from falling masonry and the like. I suppose that’s sensible really, but it does ruin the fun just a little bit.

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Land of the Gods | Kamikochi Japan

The Historic Mountain Trail tour recently travelled through Kamikochi. Here’s tour leader David to tell us more…

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Nestled deep in the Alps, Kamikochi seems worlds away from the urban sprawl most people associate with Japan.  The air is fresh, the waters crystal clear, and the mountains majestic. The name can mean “high above earth” or “where the gods descended” and is apt both literally and figuratively.

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Located a little less than two hours from either Matsumoto or Takayama (both worthy of a visit), makes it a comfortable escape and return to the wild. Due to the increasing popularity of the national park, private vehicles are no longer allowed inside the resort, meaning the only means of vehicular access is limited to either bus or sanctioned taxis. This is more of a blessing than an inconvenience for those basking in the peacefulness of what many refer to as their favorite place in Japan.

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At the bus terminal, there is a tourist information center where visitors can purchase pocket-sized maps of the area for 100 yen.  There is also a rest area where you can plan your route while enjoying refreshments from one of the many nearby shops. Those who need a toilet are encouraged to show their appreciation for cleanliness by placing a tip in a box with a note stating the average amount is 100 yen. There are about seven other equally clean toilets scattered throughout the park that deny you this privilege, forcing the use of their facilities for free.

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Walking towards the azure waters of the Azusa River, it’s easy to see Kappabashi (not to be confused with the popular “Kitchen Town” in Tokyo), the most famous bridge in the area, and a popular landmark where many visitors like to take pictures. The view from there of the nearby mountains towering above is, in a word, stunning. Both sides of the bridge offer a number of accommodation and refreshment options.

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A relaxed half-hour walk downstream brings you to the Hotaka and Tashiro bridges, which are joined by a small island. Another twenty minutes or so from there, either by a river or forest path, brings you to Taisho Pond, which was formed when nearby Mount Yake, an active volcano, erupted in 1915. The ever-present smoke plume coming out the top can serve as a reminder to be respectful of nature, especially in its most pristine state. Speaking of which, visitors are expected to leave only footprints, bringing all trash home with them (most opt for a rubbish bin in the nearest major town, but some, like my roommate, actually do maintain an impressive alter to the god of refuse in their house).

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Those who would rather not retrace their steps, and don’t mind paying four or five hundred yen, can catch a bus at the nearby Taisho Bus Stop bound for the terminal, where they can start again.

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Myojinbashi is the next bridge upstream from Kappabashi, and can be reached in about an hour by either a boardwalk across marshes and streams on the north side of the river, or via a footpath through a campsite with toilets on the south side. Keep your eyes open for macaques. Nearby Myojin Pond (entry ¥300) is a must-see. There are rest areas either side of the bridge with toilets and refreshments available.

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Another hour or so upstream, on the south side, is a grassy meadow dotted with elm trees. This used to be a pasture, but is now Tokusawa campsite. There are more lodging, toilet and refreshment opportunities here as well. For day-trippers, this would be a good place to turn around and head back to the bus terminal. Serious hikers staying in the area will want to continue on a few hours to the peaks.

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There is plenty of gorgeous scenery to be enjoyed by all fitness levels, making Kamikochi a fantastic destination for all age groups. The usual outdoor common sense applies (stay on paths, don’t feed wildlings). Dressing in layers with waterproof gear is recommended as the weather can change from a warm sunny day to hail in a couple hours.

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More information can be found here: www.kamikochi.or.jp/english

Exploring Okayama

About two weeks ago I had the privilege to be able to travel to Okayama on a research trip for IJT. Okayama Prefecture is in the south-western part of Honshu, sandwiched between Hiroshima and Hyogo Prefectures and with a coastline facing toward Shikoku. I had never been there before, so was very excited to be taking on this trip!

My first task was visiting Kifu no Sato, a lovely ryokan in Yunogo Onsen – right in the heart of the countryside of Okayama. This ryokan has a fabulous onsen with several different types of baths and is justly famous for its wonderful ikebana flower arrangements, of which there are no less than sixty-five adorning the hotel at any one time. These are arranged using only wild plants and flowers from the surrounding mountains and are changed up to twice a week – which all told is a pretty mammoth undertaking!

Just one of the many Ikebana arrangements at Kifu no Sato

Just one of the many Ikebana arrangements at Kifu no Sato

A commitment to local crafts and produce is central to the philosophy at Kifu no Sato. They are proud to serve food made with local ingredients in their restaurant (incidentally some of the best food I’ve eaten in Japan), and to furnish their rooms with pieces made by local craftsmen.

Breakfast at Kifu no Sato

Breakfast at Kifu no Sato

 

With this philosophy in mind, Kifu no Sato also offer a wide range of amazing cultural experiences, through which guests can meet and converse with local artists and craftsmen who are real experts in their fields. Guided by the wonderful Hiromi-san, I was lucky enough to meet some of the people who would be offering these experiences. Guests can have a sushi-making lesson with the chef at the ryokan; an Iaido martial arts lesson with Trevor, a British expat who has studied the art for 30 years; a pottery experience with a Living National Treasure in the historical town of Bizen; pick tea leaves and package their own tea with Mr. Shimoyama at his tea plantation; try out natural dyeing with Takami-san in Ohara town… and the list goes on.

A kimono lesson at the ryokan

A kimono lesson at the ryokan

Having tea with Mr Shimoyama and his daughter

Having tea with Mr Shimoyama and his daughter

Enchanting Mitaki-en, restaurant by the river

Enchanting Mitaki-en, restaurant by the river

After leaving Kifu no Sato, I made my way to the town of Kurashiki in the south of the Prefecture. The train ride from Okayama station to Kurashiki takes you through some really wonderful countryside and is to be highly recommended, chugging at a lazy pace through hills and mountains, over rivers and past plenty of little towns and villages. Kurashiki itself is a beautiful town with a historical town centre that feels in some places like a little piece of Europe in Japan. Through the centre runs a tree-lined canal, and the surrounding streets are filled with Western-style buildings rubbing shoulders with white-walled, black-roofed Japanese storehouses that used to be used for the storage of rice during the Edo period.

Kurashiki Bikan historical area

Kurashiki Bikan historical area

The Ohara Museum, the first museum of Western art in Japan, is the centrepiece of Kurashiki - and deservedly so. Any visitor to the town must visit this wonderful gallery, where world-famous names in Western art mingle with modern and contemporary Japanese works, along with traditional crafts and antiques from ancient Egypt and China. Even without considering the museum’s artistic offerings – it is worth a visit for the buildings alone, which are wonderful and full of character.

Inside one of the galleries at the Ohara Museum

Inside one of the galleries at the Ohara Museum

Besides the Ohara Museum Kurashiki is a veritable goldmine of museums – from the Archaeological museum and the Museum of Folkcraft to the Toy Museum, the Kurabo Memorial Museum, the Kurashiki Local History Museum, the City Art Museum, the Insect Museum, the Senichi Hoshino Museum, the Yumiko Igarashi manga art museum (where you can even rent costumes and dress up as your favourite over-the-top Igarashi manga character)… there really is something for everyone.

I highly recommend the Toy Museum, packed full of old-fashioned Japanese toys, and the Piggy-bank Museum – which is located at the top of an antiques shop and stuffed to the gills with eccentric and interesting stuff.

Daruma dolls in the Rural Toy Museum

Daruma dolls in the Rural Toy Museum

Outside the Piggy-bank museum, with its hundreds of HMV dogs keeping watch

Outside the Piggy-bank museum, with its hundreds of HMV dogs (“wan-chan”) keeping watch

My favourite museum, however, was the Momotaro Museum. Momotaro, or “Peach Boy,” is a famous Japanese folk tale in which an old couple discover a boy inside a peach, floating down a river. They adopt the child, named Momotaro, and he grows up to vanquish a host of marauding demons. Several places in Japan claim ownership of the story – one of which being Okayama. At this museum you can find a whole range of optical illusions and visual tricks; some Momotaro comics, artwork, toys and memorabilia; a room showing old-fashioned Japanese cartoons on a projector; and – the piece de resistance – a demon grotto (in the style of the “haunted house” you find at fairgrounds). I won’t describe it in too much detail in case I ruin the surprise, but suffice to say that the group of young schoolchildren who were visiting the museum at the same time as me were quite literally terrified out of their wits. Watching children scream in terror is, of course, all part of the enjoyment.

The real Momotaro?

The real Momotaro?

The chap who works in the museum (pictured above) is also rather a character, and has the amazing ability to make flutes out of chikuwa (a type of fish-paste tube you usually find in Japanese “oden” hotpots). He has been on Japanese TV a few times exhibiting this extraordinary talent, and will be happy to give you a demonstration. Aptly, he also looks kind of like a real-life Momotaro.

Here in Kurashiki I was lucky enough to stay at the Ryokan Kurashiki, which was truly the jewel in the crown of my time in Okayama. Right on the canal in the centre of the old town, this ryokan takes some beating. It is housed in a wonderful old building with amazing character, the rooms are beautifully decorated with antiques, the restaurant and terrace look out over a picturesque Japanese garden, the food is a work of art – and I hardly need mention that Nakamura-san, the proprietress, is a paragon of Japanese warmth and hospitality – or “omotenashi.”

At the Ryokan Kurashiki

At the Ryokan Kurashiki

 

The ryokan garden from our dinner table. Beautiful!

The ryokan garden as seen from our dinner table. Beautiful!

Just one of the amazing dishes served at dinner - sashimi with a sakura garnish

Just one of the amazing dishes served at dinner – sashimi with a sakura garnish

Nakamura-san grates some fresh wasabi

Nakamura-san grates some fresh wasabi

Yum

Yum.

Really, I lack the adjectives to adequately describe my stay at this ryokan (and the pictures don’t do it justice), so you will just have to go and see it for yourself. I’m pretty sure that you’ll agree with me when I say that this is a little piece of paradise.

Travelling Japan

We have a lot of people travel with us each year,  and a LOT of them travel during the peak cherry blossom period from the end of March to Mid-April. Many people get a taste for the main sights such as Tokyo and Kyoto. However, the Rowes decided to do a BIG Japan trip.

A Ryokan Stay

The trip involved the Rowes diving in the subtropics of the Okinawa islands, travelling up through volcanoc Kyushu, hiking along the mountainous pilgrimage trails of the Kumano Kodo and into the Japanese Alps. They have provided us with a couple of pics as they go, which demonstrate the variety of landscapes they encountered across Japan. Here are those pictures. Thanks for sharing and enjoy!

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Cool things to do in Tokyo – 47 Ronin

Amy from Inside Japan’s US office was recently travelling around Japan doing a bit of research. We all know Tokyo pretty well, but there is always something new to discover….even if it is old….

As visitors soon discover, Tokyo is a big place—it would take decades of sightseeing and wandering to say that you had seen everything it had to offer, and even then you will have been defeated as something is always opening or closing or “under renewal.” As a one-time resident and now re-occurring tourist, I like to mix and match my time in Tokyo so that I see my favorite spots, or places I have good memories of, with ones that I’ve never seen.

You may have heard of the 47 Ronin…even if it is only the recent Keanu Reeves version of the classic Japanese mpvie.

 

Inspired by recent client requests for samurai-related places in Tokyo, I made the trek out to Sengakuji Temple, better known as the final resting place of the “47 Ronin.” Like most places in Tokyo, the original temple burned down during World War Two, but fortunately the graveyard survived intact and is about 300 years old.

47 Ronin - Tokyo‘Trek’ is a bit misleading, though, as the temple is located just about 5 minutes on foot from Sengakuji Station on the Toei Asakusa subway and was easy to find after I stopped following people going to a nearby graduation ceremony. I had the temple almost to myself as it was Sunday, so I could wander as I pleased trying to decipher all the Japanese information (only later did I find the English pamphlet, sold alongside the incense, for a very reasonable 10yen). With this in hand, I found out that not only was this the temple where the 47 Ronin had brought the head of enemy lord to present before the grave of their former lord (washing it in the well), but also that the trees just beginning to bloom were, in fact, NOT sakura but plum trees, to my immense consternation as I had taken about 20 pictures of them. Thank goodness I had the pamphlet to save me from disgrace of announcing wrongfully that the sakura were blooming in Tokyo—best 10yen I’ve ever spent.

47 Ronin - Tokyo

There’s also a memorial museum on the grounds dedicated to the 47 Ronin (or ‘Ako Gishi’ as they’re called in Japanese). If you wasnt added ambience, visit in December for the festival remembering the 47 Ronin.

 

 

2013 to 2014: Three Things that have changed since I was last in Japan

Amy, from Inside Japan’s US office has been travelling back in Japan, visiting colleagues and seeing new places. Japan is one of those countries where traditions are strong and don’t change at all for years and years, but at the same time, things change so quickly. Amy reflects upon just three changes in Japan since her last trip in 2013. 

Smartphones

I have to admit that I called this one wrong when I told people that smartphones hadn’t quite caught on yet in Japan. They are EVERYWHERE, or at least everywhere I happen to look. There are still a few holdouts, of course, or people who prefer the flip-style cell phones (older folks, elementary school children, etc.), but it seems that if you want to be cool and hip now, you’ve got to have a smartphone. And it certainly is more entertaining when riding the train to watch your neighbor play the Japanese version of Candy Crush than it is to wonder if you were supposed to get off at the last station.

Softbank iPhone on Display by Women in Traditional Japanese Clothing

IC Card Credit Meters

Granted, I’ve only seen this device once at a “konbini” near JR Kamakura Station, but what a GREAT idea, as in why hasn’t someone thought of this sooner! Most of our customers are given IC cards as part of their package as they are convenient when travelling on local train in Tokyo for example. You can also use the cards to buy food and drinks at some vending machines.  However!!! Don’t have any cash on hand but also can’t remember if you have enough credit on your IC card to pay for your onigiri? Just hold your IC card to the back of the meter, push the black pad, and bam! Instant credit check. If this doesn’t become standard in every konbini in a few years, I’ll be shocked, simply shocked.

Technology in Japan

On-Call JR Operators

I went to JR Kyoto Station to reserve a seat on the Shinkansen using my JR Passand was resigned to waiting in the long, long line when a station attendant asked me why don’t I use the automated ticket machines instead. I explained that I had a JR Pass and had to use the ticket office only to be told that that wouldn’t be an issue since they had an on-call operator. “An operator?” I thought. “What could that possibly mean?” So I followed the attendant and was surprised to see that several ticket machines did indeed have an intercom/phone system where you could place your JR Pass under the camera, request a train reservation, and the operator would take care of it for you. This service is very new—from February, actually—and currently only in Japanese, but according to the station attendant they may offer it in English if there is enough demand. So everyone with a JR Pass, use this machine!

Japan Technology

5 Reasons to Visit Kamakura

Amy, from Inside Japan’s US office is traveling around Japan! She’s currently in Kamakura, and should you need a reason to visit, she has plenty!

Kamakura

The small seaside town, temple town of Kamakura is just a one hour trip from the Tokyo Metropolis and an excellent day trip or place to stay, brimming with history and culture. Here are 5 good reasons to visit Kamakura.

Kamakura, Japan

1) Temples and Shrines
To see one of the best examples Shinto shrines in Japan at Tsurugaoka Hachiman-jingu, which is also a birder’s destination with all the hawks, herons, and possibly “sacred” white pigeons purifying themselves.

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2) Big Buddha
To see the bronze “Daibutsu” at Kotokuin Temple—anything that has survived earthquakes and tsunami and is still standing watch serenely unlike the temple house that once housed it is worth seeing in my book!

Kamakura, Japan

3) Cool cafes
There are some nice cafes in Kamakura and you can even get your coffee from the back of a van in a driveway! Because you can’t do that just anywhere and actually get good coffee.

Kamakura, Japan

4) Cats
To see many cat-themed products, art pieces, and actual cats sleeping on the merchandise who could care less if you wanted to buy it or not.

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5) The beach
Kamakura has some very nice beaches and some of the best surf in Japan. If you visit the town, you can say that you went and stood in the Pacific Ocean…and didn’t get hypothermia even though the water was as cold as glacier run-off! It is March.

Hiking the Japanese Alps

IJT tour leader, Steve Parker, loves a walk. He also loves Japan. No wonder that he decided to walk the Japanese Alps and create an amazing and adventurous tour for 2014.

Kamikochi  by day

I spent a considerable amount of time during July and August hiking some of Japan’s stunning 3000m peaks with InsideJapantours’ clients looking for adventure and achievement to add to their cultural fascination of this great country.

KamikochiThe Chubu Sangaku National Park offers something for all levels of hiker – the lower area is a pristine river valley experience – the Asuza River winding its way through forests of larch, cedar and giant ferns. Its so-called Kappabashi Bridge is the photographic hotspot of the area – scores of daytrippers line the bridge to get that great alpine shot up the Dakesawa valley to Hotaka Dake Peak – Japan’s 3rd highest.This summer’s work was largely in the high Northern Alps, so-called after the publication of hiking tales by a British/Sudanese missionary, Walter Weston, in the late 1800s. My first challenge in July was to check the trail and snow levels for an upcoming trip through the Karasawa Valley to Hotaka Peak (3190m).KappabashiThis area, a particular favourite for hikers in autumn, owing to the painted citrus and cherry red colours of the autumn foliage, is a different world in the late spring/ early summer months. Japan’s Alps receive some of the highest levels of snowfall on the planet and it doesn’t disappear quickly – even when temperatures in the valley below are touching the mid-30s! (Celsius). With this in mind – the steep nature of the terrain and the extensive snowfields to encounter, I realised that crampons and an ice axe were essential. After 2 hours on the steepening trail up from the Karasawa stream, where the heat was intense and the greenery abundant, it was time to get the “extra” kit out. The adventure was unfolding.National park

Early July is not a busy time to summit via this valley. After trudging in bite-sized steps over the snow for 3 hours, I saw but one sole hiker in the daunting mists and winds that buffeted me as I hit the upper slopes of the Karasawa Valley, at around 2700m.  We stopped to chat on a precarious area of loose scree, both genuinely enjoying a stranger’s company for the 5 minutes that we had taken to refuel on chocolate and water, yet not wanting our body temperatures to cool too much. My crampons were coming off after 3 hours of workout, as I had finally reached the spine of tricky rock known as “zaitengrad”, extending down from the Hotaka ridgeline above. My fleeting friend, a mountain guide from the southern island of Yakushima, was descending, so strapping on the spikes. We advised each other on the trail ahead, said farewell as I set off once more, clambering and scrambling for a further hour, grateful for the strenuous nature of the trail that pushed my body and kept it warm in the deteriorating conditions.Kamikochi

I have led mountain tours in various countries, but I was now alone, getting cold and tiring in the fading light and gloomy cloud cap that shrouded views of the hut above and the summit. The staff at the friendly Hotaka Sansou Hut seemed almost as pleased to see me as I was them. This was a mere hot coffee stop, however, and as I stepped out of the hut to continue, I felt a pang of dismay and regret, as if I were leaving close friends. On top of JapanAlong the lower right side of the ridge towards Mae Hotaka Peak brought respite from the elements and even afforded me the occasional views down the slopes and into the valleys beneath me – it is quite amazing how a single momentary view can lift the spirits. This was somewhat short lived, however, as I met my first stretch of snowfield for 3 hours. Although just 20metres wide, at a 35-degree gradient stretching down hill, this was, the toughest 15 minutes of the entire hike. Crampons on and the trusted ice axe out, I realised that one slip here and it was an unwanted 300m toboggan run down the gully to exposed rocks below. No help, no escape. Adrenaline leaked out of my pores as I dug footings meticulously across the gully and hammered my axe deep into the snow above for grip. As frantically as I dug footholds, my crampons slid off my pedal ledges on occasion, exerting a lot of pressure and responsibility on that axe. It held fast for me though, and after an exhausting traverse, I calmed the nerves and treated myself to an energy bar and peanuts.

Historic Moutain TrailsFinally, after reaching the lower section of Mae Hotaka peak it was time for the long-awaited yet gruelingly steep descent over wet rock and down challenging loose scree. The knees were creaking and cracking under the strain, even with my hiking poles to relieve some of the burden. By now, the views of the glorious, verdant-carpeted Asuza River valley and my ultimate objective painted a heartwarming canvass in front of my eyes.  That said, I realised that too much wonderment at the clearing vistas could be a lethal distraction as I gingerly clambered down to the Dakesawa valley for the final 1 hour “stroll” back down to the river side.

Time seemingly trudges more slowly than a weary hiker, so the last trail-marking sign indicating 45 minutes to go seemed like an gross underestimate. Of course, the sign told no lie but also told of my impatient desire to reach the flat riverside, find a hot spring bath and reward myself with a beer. Finally, after what seemed like 3 hours in my desperately tired mind and hungry core, I found myself back among the day trippers, snap happy on the Kappabashi, unaware of what really lurks in the peaks above. I felt smug and quite the great adventurer, as if the secret was all mine. However, luxury temptations brought me back to a state of humility as I soaked my limbs and then sat and contemplated the whole adventure over a cold riverside beer. A job well done!Summer in the mountainsTwo weeks later, I returned to the same Hotaka Range in the Northern Alps with an Insidejapantours’ hiking group. The summer had pushed on somewhat by then, melting considerable swathes of the snow I had encountered and easing our trail considerably. We laughed, puffed, grimaced and bonded in an unforgiving, but stunning environment. This tour is breathtaking – literally.

Historic Mountain Trails hikes across the Alps this July 2014 along with walking sections of the old Nakasendo Way and climbing the new UNESCO World Heritage listed Mt Fuji.

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