Tohoku: Then & Now – Ester De Roij

Two years on from the great Tohoku earthquake and tsunami, tourism to Japan is back to pre-tsunami levels and InsideJapan Tours are assisting more people than ever in discovering the beautiful culture, countryside and people of Japan. In this anniversary week, the InsideJapan blog will focus on the region looking at how it has recovered, the charities that have made a difference and why tourists are returning to this area of Japan and indeed other areas of the country. The blog pieces are taken from personal experiences of the InsideJapan Tours team in the UK, US and Japan.

Ester works on the admin and images here at the UK InsideJapan Tours HQ assisting with the design of our Info Packs, helping with the image library and a whole host of other tasks. In fact she is a young woman with all sorts of surprises up her sleeve. As well as being an excellent photographer and a keen filmmaker, Ester has spent a lot of time travelling the length and breadth of Japan which included some time volunteering in the tsunami affected Tohoku region. Ester shares some of her experiences and photos from tsunami affected Ishinomaki town after volunteering in 2011 not long after the disaster struck and later in 2012.

The day we arrived in Ishinomaki it was really warm. Putting up our tents on the University sports field was sweaty business and just 3 days later we had to evacuate our tents because of too much snow! These were the tough conditions in post-tsunami Tohoku. During our volunteer work, the thing I found most poignant were the stories from ordinary local people in extraordinary situations – and they were happy to share.

One lady spent two nights in a car park, wondering if her son was still alive. Others spent their days worrying if the bubbling black water was going to drown them alive as it reached the second floor of their houses. One man’s family cried out of gratitude when they saw foreigners helping them and told us that living off tight rations after the tsunami was more difficult than rations during the war.

My favourite though, was Mr. Atsushi Kondo, owner of a fugu shop, who stayed with a different friend each night, borrowing clothes as he went along. We spent two days cleaning his shop, despite his statements of: “I’m 69 already, I don’t know if I can open a new shop!” So grateful for all our help, he rushed upstairs and gave everything he had left – business cards, Chinese lanterns, the lot.

Working on Kondo san's shop

Working on Kondo san’s shop

At the end of the week, we had a belated hanami party (cherry blossom viewing) for the people in Ishinomaki, and he came and greeted us with bottles of coke and orange lemonade he had found from before the tsunami. “Why are you not drinking alcohol?”, he asked us.

Hanami drink with Kondo san

Hanami drink with Kondo san

To which we replied, “We haven’t been drinking all week, out of respect for everyone we are helping out.”
“Oh really? I’ll be back in 5 minutes.”
A little later, he returned with a bag and told us to hide it. It contained a bottle of Japanese Sake that he still had from before the tsunami, and he wanted us to have it. So kind!

Ishinomaki 2011

Ishinomaki 2011

Ishinomaki 2012

Ishinomaki 2012

Fast forward 14 months, and I had the opportunity to visit Ishinomaki again. The place looked nothing like it had looked before – clean street tiles, bustling traffic, and shops open everywhere. I asked about Mr. Kondo, or Mr. Fugu as everyone called him. Much to my surprise, the locals pointed me in the direction of a shop. A seafood shop. As it turns out, Mr. Fugu had enough motivation to open a shop again. Sadly I wasn’t able to meet him that day, but some fellow volunteers did a few months later. I couldn’t have received better news.

A tsunami wrecked house 2011

A tsunami wrecked house 2011

The house in 2012

The house in 2012

Ishinomaki streets 2011

Ishinomaki streets 2011

Ishinomaki streets 2012

Ishinomaki streets 2012

“Ishinomaki is doing well”, some locals told me. “Some people have left, and some people have come back.”

A great personal account of the region from Ester. Two years is a long time and the region has come on a long way. There is still work that needs to be done in the most devastated areas, but generally life is pretty much back to normal in the region with rebuilding programmes moving at lightening pace. The chances are that you will probably not head to Ishinomaki unless you join one of the volunteering groups such as our favourite Its Not Just Mud or Peaceboat but there is plenty to see in this beautiful rural Tohoku area. We will continue to look at the region over the week marking the landmark 2nd anniversary.

Japan Geisha Dreams

It is always nice to hear from our customers; especially if they absolutely love Japan…thankfully, more often than not, they usually find themselves loving it. It is fantastic receiving feedback that is so gushing about Japan and its culture and the services that we provide, we get a warm feeling in the knowledge that we have had a part in converting someone else to the wonders of this beautiful place.

Gemma Scott travelled back in April 2012 on the Spring Elegance group tour which seems a long time ago now, but she was full of praise about the great country and the memories are obvciously very vivid. If she wasn’t before, Gemma is now what you would class as a ‘Japanophile’ I believe. We thought we would ask her expand on her feedback, tell us about the best bits and show us some of her beautiful photos and are glad that she accepted! Here is what she had to say;

I have always been fascinated by Japan, the culture, the lifestyle, the food. After researching into travelling to Japan, I opted for the Spring Elegance tour – Two whole weeks of experiencing one of the most intriguing and beguiling places on Earth.

The tour took me to several different cities and towns, on the main island of Honshu. Tokyo both old (Edo as Tokyo was known as prior to the Meiji period) and modern day with museums, shrines, temples, the contrast of beautiful gardens with a backdrop of the skyscraper district, penetrating the sky.

Matusmoto and its stunning castle (a word or warning – the sets of stairs inside are steep, with one set in particular at a 61 degree incline – complete with a rope to help pull yourself up the stairs with!), with a small side trip to the onsen (hot spring bathhouse) at Asama – a must!

Takayama the home of miso and sake, sitting in one of the many sake shops with the tour group sipping on a sample of sake, was a great way to bond.

The Kenroku-en Gardens in Kanazawa, it is rated as one of the top three gardens in Japan. Considering it is quite simply breathtaking, it is not hard to see why.

Kyoto – the old capital of Japan, before Edo – Tokyo, and the first place that comes to mind when you think of Geisha. Here the Geisha are so proud of who they are and where they are from, that they prefer to be called Geiko, so to be set apart from Geisha from any other part of Japan.

Here I took a day trip to Hiroshima where the first atomic bomb was dropped on 6 August 1945 (a date you will never forget by the time you leave). This was a very sombre day, learning about what had happened before, during and after the bomb has been detonated. It was morbidly fascinatingbut equally spine-chilling.

The penultimate stop was Hakone, home to Mount Fuji. On the day we took a trip round the national park, and saw Mount Fuji, it was a lovely sunny day. We had some spectacular views of Fuji. Her first appearance was on a cable car ride up the side of a volcano, with further opportunities was we took a boat ride around Lake Ashi.  Lastly we made our way back to Tokyo, for a one night stay in the modern part of Tokyo before bidding farewell to new friends and boarding the plane homeward bound.

The highlight of the tour is what I have come to call “My Geisha Day” in Kyoto.  It all started with a session at a Geisha makeover studio. The session has to be booked in advance, which our tour leader was all to happy to arrange on my behalf. The package I had chosen was the Maiko (an apprentice Geisha) makeover. The whole process from make up, putting on the kimono to photo shoot took 2 hours in total. It was fascinating to watch all the different stages come together.  A few of the ladies on my tour joined me having makeover as well, we had great fun choosing the kimono that we were going to wear. Watching each stage come together, the make up – whitening of the face, painting the double or triple “v” on the back of the neck (the neck is considered a very sensual part of the body in Japan, and the “v“ is used to create an illusion to elongate the nape of the neck). The highlighting of the eyes in black and red makeup and the vivid red lips.

The kimono itself is a robe that comes in one size. It has a band of plain material across the middle. This section can be left as it is, or be taken up to shorten the kimono to fit. There are many layers to a kimono outfit. The kimono does make up the bulk of the outfit, but there are under garments, ties, sashes, belts, collars and the obi to be added during the process.  Not to mention the wig complete with pins and jewellery (the wigs were put on, already dressed). The visual transformation was amazing to see. The photographs were spectacular. If you are fascinated by Geisha, or are looking for a personalised souvenir, then I would recommend a makeover package. If you go with friends or family from the tour, it’s a great way to spend a good time together.

The rest of the afternoon was spent making our way to Gion Corner to watch the Geisha Spring Dance. As you entered the room for the serving of tea, you were sat down in rows and the tea and a sweet were served to everyone. The type of green tea served is called Matcha and is dark and quite bitter. You do not put sugar in the tea. Therefore a sweet is served alongside the tea. You eat the sweet first, to sweeten your mouth and then drink the tea. It does make a big difference in taste. This part was quite rushed as there were a lot of people waiting, but it was still an experience to watch the Maiko prepare the tea for the room, looking stunning in their full regalia.

The time had come to take our seats and get ready to watch the dance. The stage had catwalks either side, with the seating in the middle. There were curtains set back into the catwalks. The lights turned down and doors opened at the ends of the catwalks. Here a group of Maiko made their entrance, the curtains were drawn, on the left sat Maiko playing percussion (drums) and flute and on the right sat Geisha singing and playing shamisen. The first scene would be a highlight of the dance with about 20 dancers on stage. The following seven would each tell a story, linking itself into the previous scene in some way. They transcend from Spring, to Summer, to Autumn, to Winter and back to Spring for the finale, with about 60 Maiko and Geiko on stage.

The whole performance was lavish, extravagant, beautiful and vibrant. From the incredibly detailed sets – the individual blossoms and leaves on the trees, the hundreds of tiny optic light representing fireflies, to the backdrops which undulated to depict the waves of the sea. The costumes were rich, bold and imaginative from the men that fought brave battles, to the kimono of the Maiko and Geiko twirling as they danced in unison, their hair ornaments twinkling in the stage lights. The music was enchanting and riveting, enhanced by the emotions portrayed in the voices of the singers. They could build the atmosphere between two lovers sorrow as lovers parted ways, the violent storms endured at sea, and dramatic battle scenes that brought death and glory.

Needless to say I was enraptured from start to finish. Which is also true of the whole journey, the experience. I am afraid that I have fallen in love with Japan, even more so, than before I had decided to make the journey and land on Japanese soil. Turning a journey of a lifetime in to what maybe, in time, a home from home.

Welcome to the ‘we went to Japan and fell in love with it and everything about it’ club Gemma. Glad we could help you get there. It sounds as though there will be many other travels to Japan in the future. We are very happy to hear it!

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Monday night in Shinjuku, Tokyo

Monday April 18th 7pm

Last night was our final dinner of the first Hidden Japan tour of the year. We were in Shinjuku, the bright neon heart of central Tokyo. 

We ate at a traditional izakaya (Japanese diner). Earlier in our tour, we had a memorable picnic under the sakura that included scotch eggs, now with the salarymen below the skyscrapers in Shinjuku, our table contained grated yam, natto and raw horse amongst more conventional dishes. 

After dinner we went for a walk up to Kabukicho, the bright sprawling night-time entertainment district. Contrary to reports, all the lights were on - well the important ones were anyway, and there seemed to be alot of night-time entertainment going on – whatever that is.   

Stores are cutting back on non-essential electricity use. But walking around Shinjuku, we saw some machines are just too important to stop – like the pinball pachinko and the table-flipping stress-release game. We watched one gentleman almost snap one of these machines in half with his barely contained fury.

Our stroll concluded at Omoide Yokocho, affectionately known as Piss Alley. The atmosphere was lively, althought the crowds were thinner than usual. It may not sound a great place to eat, but there are some wonderful little dinner-dens here, including a 1940s counter bar that only serves eel. 

It`s now Tuesday morning, and my group have left Tokyo on the Narita Express train.  Fortunately for me, left in Tokyo, the cherry blossoms are still in bloom. I can still have a hanami picnic, although I doubt I can manage a whole pack of Scotch eggs on my own.

Hidden Japan group joins Spring Elegance group for last supper.

 

The table-flipping machine - crucial to the economic recovery.

 

A Piss Alley dinner den, don`t let the name put you off.

Sakura, sushi and scotch eggs.

We are almost ten days into our Hidden Japan tour. It has been perfect picnic weather almost everyday.

The sakura (cherry blossoms) are in full bloom, so on Sunday, we took advantage by having a hanami picnic of sushi, bananas, soba noodles and scotch eggs. 

Photographing sakura in Hamarikyu Park, Tokyo.

Walking through Hamarikyu Park beneath the Shiodome skyscrapers

Hanami party in Matsuyama

The dream team: Beer, sushi and scotch eggs.

Tokyo life in business as usual shock

Whilst the headlines have been screaming of imminent and impending doom, all the reports we have been receiving have been of life in the capital returning rapidly to normal, of the Japanese just “getting on with it”. Could this possibly be true? I went to Japan to find out!

As I touched down at Narita Airport on Monday morning at 8:50am, I felt genuinely nervous about what would lie beyond the confines of my 747. Would I find stories of normality to have been greatly over-stated? Would there be an underlying sense of grief and horror permeating the atmosphere of the city? Despite my confidence in the reports of my colleagues and suppliers, doubts still remained.

For the month since the great Tohoku earthquake struck on 11th March 2011, I have wanted to get over to Japan to see my friends and colleagues and to try and understand this monumental disaster a little better; what does this mean for Japan and of course, on a much smaller scale, what does it mean for me personally and for InsideJapan Tours. (more…)

Cherry blossoms in Tokyo

Saturday April 2nd 2011         Inokashira Park in Tokyo

It`s still early in the hanami season, but already the party has begun in Tokyo. In Inokashira park yesterday, hundreds of people were celebrating the arrival of spring with a picnic with friends/family/colleagues under a sakura (cherry blossom) tree. 

There was a festive New Years Eve kind of atmosphere. Knowing tea ceremony ettiquette won`t help you here. Any behaviour, except wearing shoes, seems acceptable once on the blue tarpaulin.

Locals and foreigners alike were having a great time. A peak-capped Japanese man was playing ’The House of the Rising Sun’ on his guitar. A passing American was so impressed he stopped to sing for him.   To be honest, he had a dreadful voice, but then again so do I, and the sake-drunk audience loved it all the same. 

 

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