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Journey back to Tohoku – Amy Tadehara

Posted on 15 March, 2013 by jimbojapanam

Amy is from our US office. Amy also lived in Sendai for several years and has a special love for Tohoku. Exactly two years on from the tsunami, Amy returned to the region to see how her Tohoku was getting on….

When I was invited to go on a business trip to Japan this March and saw that the planned itinerary would take me back to Tohoku, my home for four years, my gut reaction was twofold: I was excited, of course, but also apprehensive. Suddenly, despite the other destinations we would see, all I could think of was that weekend two years ago when the Great East Japan Earthquake changed everything.

Beauty of Hirosaki in the snow

Still, I wasn’t going to pass on the opportunity to see Japan again, and so I flew into Tokyo Narita Airport with a group of fellow agents to spend a week exploring an area of Japan that is often neglected by foreign visitors. We spent the night in Tokyo before heading off to what the famous haiku master Basho called “the Deep North.”

We visited the Nebuta Festival Museum in Aomori (the next best thing to the festival itself); saw the beauty of Hirosaki in snowfall; soaked in the hot springs of Hanamaki; and cooked the regional speciality of Akita, kiritanpo.

Kiritanpo

But most poignant of all was seeing the areas near Sendai where the 2011 tsunami swept away almost everything in its path. Our local guide was a man who had, in the days and weeks after the tsunami, secured food and other supplies for the people who had taken shelter at his community center. We met a woman who tried to flee with her family—including her month-old grandson—and had her car taken up and deposited on another house; they had to scramble through an upstairs window to safety. But the landscape was the hardest to bear. In most cases, nothing remained of a building but the foundation, or those that had been built solidly like schools—but the two that we saw are understandably slated for demolition later this year. After all, who would want to return to the site of so much grief, terror, and despair?

And yet some do. Before we headed to the hotel, our guide pointed out a pole with strings of yellow flags fastened to the ground, one of several around us but something of an afterthought amid the barrenness. Then he told us that they were put up by residents who vowed to return even though the government has forbidden rebuilding until further notice. Much has been said about the resilience and fortitude of the Japanese after the triple disaster of 2011, but nothing has convinced me of their strength so much as what those yellow flags represent: a yearning for home, no matter the danger, and the hope that one day, life will be normal again.

However, life in Tohoku, away from the tsunami affected coast is normal. This region is still the most beautiful in Japan as far as I’m concerned. Although we shouldn’t forget those people that are still affected by an ongoing struggle, I urge people to visit this beautiful part of Japan- the hot springs, the countryside and the rich rural culture of “the Deep North”.

The beauty of Tohoku

Perhaps one of the most atractive aspects of Tohoku is the strength of its culture and traditions and the all round warmth of the people but as this footage from the ‘A Northern Soul’ tour from 2012 shows, Tohoku is beautiful. I’m sure that if Bassho were alive today, he would have a few more words to say about the place….well…about 17 syllables worth actually…

Tourism to Japan is virtually back up to pre-tsunami levels, the exchange rate against the yen means that you will get great value for money at the moment and there are a million reasons as to why you should discover Japan for yourself. If you want more reasons as to why you should travel beyond the likes of Tokyo and Kyoto, have a read of a previous post with five excellent reasons as to why you should try a bit of the north.

If you would like to donate to our chosen charity, Its Not Just Mud who are still working hard in Ishinomaki, please follow this link – http://itsnotjustmud.com/donate/

Filed under: Culture, March 11th Tsunami, Sightseeing, Travel Advice | Tagged: 'Japan travel', InsideJapan Tours, ishinomaki, Sightseeing, Tohoku, tsunami | Leave a Comment »

Tohoku: Then & Now – Ester De Roij

Posted on 13 March, 2013 by jimbojapanam

Two years on from the great Tohoku earthquake and tsunami, tourism to Japan is back to pre-tsunami levels and InsideJapan Tours are assisting more people than ever in discovering the beautiful culture, countryside and people of Japan. In this anniversary week, the InsideJapan blog will focus on the region looking at how it has recovered, the charities that have made a difference and why tourists are returning to this area of Japan and indeed other areas of the country. The blog pieces are taken from personal experiences of the InsideJapan Tours team in the UK, US and Japan.

Ester works on the admin and images here at the UK InsideJapan Tours HQ assisting with the design of our Info Packs, helping with the image library and a whole host of other tasks. In fact she is a young woman with all sorts of surprises up her sleeve. As well as being an excellent photographer and a keen filmmaker, Ester has spent a lot of time travelling the length and breadth of Japan which included some time volunteering in the tsunami affected Tohoku region. Ester shares some of her experiences and photos from tsunami affected Ishinomaki town after volunteering in 2011 not long after the disaster struck and later in 2012.

The day we arrived in Ishinomaki it was really warm. Putting up our tents on the University sports field was sweaty business and just 3 days later we had to evacuate our tents because of too much snow! These were the tough conditions in post-tsunami Tohoku. During our volunteer work, the thing I found most poignant were the stories from ordinary local people in extraordinary situations – and they were happy to share.

One lady spent two nights in a car park, wondering if her son was still alive. Others spent their days worrying if the bubbling black water was going to drown them alive as it reached the second floor of their houses. One man’s family cried out of gratitude when they saw foreigners helping them and told us that living off tight rations after the tsunami was more difficult than rations during the war.

My favourite though, was Mr. Atsushi Kondo, owner of a fugu shop, who stayed with a different friend each night, borrowing clothes as he went along. We spent two days cleaning his shop, despite his statements of: “I’m 69 already, I don’t know if I can open a new shop!” So grateful for all our help, he rushed upstairs and gave everything he had left – business cards, Chinese lanterns, the lot.

Working on Kondo san’s shop

At the end of the week, we had a belated hanami party (cherry blossom viewing) for the people in Ishinomaki, and he came and greeted us with bottles of coke and orange lemonade he had found from before the tsunami. “Why are you not drinking alcohol?”, he asked us.

Hanami drink with Kondo san

To which we replied, “We haven’t been drinking all week, out of respect for everyone we are helping out.”
“Oh really? I’ll be back in 5 minutes.”
A little later, he returned with a bag and told us to hide it. It contained a bottle of Japanese Sake that he still had from before the tsunami, and he wanted us to have it. So kind!

Ishinomaki 2011

Ishinomaki 2012

Fast forward 14 months, and I had the opportunity to visit Ishinomaki again. The place looked nothing like it had looked before – clean street tiles, bustling traffic, and shops open everywhere. I asked about Mr. Kondo, or Mr. Fugu as everyone called him. Much to my surprise, the locals pointed me in the direction of a shop. A seafood shop. As it turns out, Mr. Fugu had enough motivation to open a shop again. Sadly I wasn’t able to meet him that day, but some fellow volunteers did a few months later. I couldn’t have received better news.

A tsunami wrecked house 2011

The house in 2012

Ishinomaki streets 2011

Ishinomaki streets 2012

“Ishinomaki is doing well”, some locals told me. “Some people have left, and some people have come back.”

A great personal account of the region from Ester. Two years is a long time and the region has come on a long way. There is still work that needs to be done in the most devastated areas, but generally life is pretty much back to normal in the region with rebuilding programmes moving at lightening pace. The chances are that you will probably not head to Ishinomaki unless you join one of the volunteering groups such as our favourite Its Not Just Mud or Peaceboat but there is plenty to see in this beautiful rural Tohoku area. We will continue to look at the region over the week marking the landmark 2nd anniversary.

Filed under: March 11th Tsunami, Sightseeing, Travel, Volunteering | Tagged: 'Japan travel', hanami, InsideJapan Tours, Japan, Japan trip, Japanese culture, Tohoku, tsunami, volunteering | Leave a Comment »

2 years on – a personal look back from InsideJapan’s director, Alastair Donnelly

Posted on 11 March, 2013 by AJD

Today, the 11th of March 2013, marks the two year anniversary of the Great Tohoku Earthquake. It is hard to believe that two years have passed since the east coast of Tohoku was devastated by enormous tsunami waves, destroying hundreds of thousands of homes and taking tens of thousands of lives.

For me that day is etched permanently in the memory. I remember very distinctly hearing the first reports on the Today programme shortly after 6:30am followed by the more extensive and more horrifying 7am bulletin (listen to the edited bulletin below). And then shortly afterward that receiving an email from our office manager in Japan, Ayako, saying there had been a large earthquake but the situation was not clear. I remember arriving into the office, calling everyone over and discussing together what we could do and how we would look after our customers in Japan and our clients waiting to travel in the upcoming spring season.

That day our team work was the best it had ever been. We called next of kin to let them know their loved ones were safe; we spoke to clients with imminent departures, reassuring them their money was safe even if they were unable to travel; I was interviewed on local radio and James was interviewed live on BBC World. We did our best to answer the barrage of questions whilst remaining reassuring and professional at all times. I was extremely proud of our team both on that day and during the weeks that followed.

That was my immediate experience of the Tohoku earthquake, from thousands of miles away. That day I asked the team not to watch the news on their computers. To ignore the rolling news headlines, the images of horror and destruction. We are a company made up of people who care very deeply about Japan. For each of us our time spent living in Japan has left an indelible mark on who we are. I knew that if we allowed ourselves to be drawn to that then the emotional strain would be too much and we wouldn’t have the focus needed to keep it together for our clients and for the business.

On the 11th, after everyone had gone home, I sat back and watched my screen, the coastline burning as fires raged out of control in the darkness of the Tohoku night. I cried at my desk and felt utterly useless. I still remeber being surprised at the intesity of the grief I felt for people I had never met. It was heartbreaking.

For the business and for the whole team the weeks that followed were extremely tough as the situation worsened in Japan and it became apparent that this was a disaster on an unprecedented scale. I knew it would be many months before people felt they could travel safely to Japan. I worried about how we could keep everyone in their jobs, about whether the business we had built could survive.

After the immediate crisis passed we channelled our efforts into fund raising for disaster relief and on improving our systems and business materials. The whole company went down to a four day week and it felt a little like a period of hibernation; a slowing down whilst we waited for recovery to begin. But at no time did we give up and in our own way were inspired by the Independent’s enduring front cover from Saturday 12th March – “Gambare Nihon, Gambere Tohoku” – “Don’t give up Japan, Don’t give up Tohoku”. I don’t know who at the Independent came up with that or which editor took the decision to run with that front cover, but it was inspirational and extremely moving. It expressed what we were all feeling and for many months adorned our work notice board, reminding us all that we had to play our own small part.

The Independent ‘s front cover. Saturday 12th March, 2011

It seems perhaps insignificant when one considers the magnitude of the disaster, but getting visitors over to Japan and showing them what an extraordinary country it is has been an important part of the recovery process. For the Japanese, the return of foreign visitors has helped provide a psychological boost; an affirmation that the nation is back on its feet and foreign visitors again feel it is a safe and exciting destination to visit.

But whilst business at InsideJapan Tours is again strong and visitor numbers to Japan from the UK have almost reached 2010 levels, it is important not to forget those whose lives were changed forever two years ago. There are still over 300,000 people living in temporary accommodation. Whole families living in a space that is little more than a well equipped shipping container. And whereas their basic physical needs have been met by the state, the emotional scars will never heal. Levels of depression, post-traumatic stress disorder and alcoholism are high in the regions affected. Along with the devastating personal loss, many also lost their homes and their jobs. Japanese are extremely proud people and not having paid employment is an extra psychological as well as economic burden. Children struggle to come to terms with the horror of that day and although counselling services are available the numbers affected are just too great for everyone to have access.

InsideJapan’s Ruth Hubbard Volunteering at It’s Not Just Mud

It is hard to know what we can do to assist those whose lives are still in limbo. For whom the reality of the Great Tohoku Earthquake is part of their everyday life. We have sent a few volunteers to ‘It’s Not Just Mud’, a small non-profit working near Ishinomaki. Our staff have been to help out and we have raised a small amount of cash. Small gestures but we hope ones that have made a difference to somebody’s life.

As a tour operator and travel company I still believe that encouraging our clients to visit Tohoku is the best thing we can do to help. Tourism brings jobs and economic recovery will help. We are still focused on recommending Tohoku to our clients. It is a beautiful region of Japan with friendly people and great food. For those who wish to visit the affected areas we always encourage them to do so. Far from shunning visitors, those who travel here receive the warmest of welcomes.

The world moves on and the world forgets. New disasters happen; turn on the television news and suffering is everywhere. But for the people of Tohoku the disaster is still very close at hand. And on this day of remembrance I would like to encourage everyone to stop and spend a few moments to reflect on what happened on that dreadful Friday in 2011. “Gambare Nihon, Gambare Tohoku”. – “Don’t give up Japan, Don’t give up Tohoku” and never forget.

Click to view Alastair’s images from a visit to Tohoku in August 2011

Filed under: March 11th Tsunami, Opinion | Tagged: japan disaster, remebrance, tohoku earthquake, tsunami 2011 | 1 Comment »

Learning to Love the Ocean

Posted on 8 March, 2013 by jennifersnow1

Jennifer Snow is one of our tour leaders who volunteered with our chosen charity, Its Not Just Mud. Her piece focuses on her time volunteering and appreciation of the scenery that surrounds the region.

This March 11^th marks the second year since the Great East Japan Earthquake and subsequent tsunami, which took over 22,000 lives and led to massive damage in the Tohoku region of Japan. Today I’d like to talk about one of my “lessons learned” volunteering in the region.

When I decided to volunteer in Tohoku’s Ishinomaki, Miyagi prefecture with It’s Not Just Mud (INJM), I tried to not go in with any expectations to begin with, but one thing that I certainly didn’t expect was to learn to appreciate the ocean more from those affected by the tsunami.

One of It’s Not Just Mud’s major projects is to provide small business support to a small fishing village, Funakoshi, an hour and half drive from INJM’s main base. While in comparison to many other towns, few people passed away in the disaster, the village, including the fishing industry, was completely destroyed. Some of the fishermen and their wives formed a sort of collective to rebuild the fishing industry, both through a business venture to create and sell jewelry, with the profits going into rebuilding the industry, and through sharing resources in order to continue fishing to some extent.

Funakoshi village

Some weeks I would spend up to 3 days going to Funakoshi to help the fishermen and their wives with these projects, and what I began to notice as I talked to (as much as I could – the older fishermen had a very strong accent called “mumble dialect” that even young people from the area had trouble understanding) and observed the fishermen was that despite everything, they still loved fishing and the ocean, the source of their life’s work. On calm, sunny days when they were able to go out and fish, they were always full of smiles and energetic. When the day was over or they had just finished a task, they would often all stand in a row and look out at the ocean for a while while they talked amongst themselves. I too began enjoying the fantastic views of the ocean on the long drive through the mountains from our base to Funakoshi, and of course the delicious fish and salmon roe that so many people, including the people of Funakoshi, gave us despite us being there to try and help them.

The view on the drive to Funakoshi

Before this, I sort of thought of the ocean as an enemy that I was fighting against by trying to rebuild what it destroyed through the tsunami. What I learned from the people of Funakoshi was that the ocean was and still is an important part of people’s life in the affected area, a source of livelihood and of course nourishment, not just death and destruction. I am incredibly grateful to have been able to learn this lesson.

Recently, thanks to the initiatives of the cooperative, some of the families in Funakoshi have been able to return to their previous jobs and fish independently again. But there is still a lot of work to be done before the people of Funakoshi, and people all over the affected area, can return to a completely normal life. Funakoshi plans to rebuild on higher ground, but this might not be possible until 2014, and many people just can’t afford to rebuild their house.

There is still a lot of work to be done, and I hope everyone remembers the people of Tohoku, those departed and those still with us, this March 11^th.

If you would like to donate to INJM, please follow this link http://itsnotjustmud.com/donate/

Photos by Jeremy Schuette, 2012

Otsukare sama deshita! Thanks to Jen for this. Although the 2nd anniversary is an important milestone and a chance to move on, it is important to remember that there are still people in Tohoku that do need help. Whilst unskilled volunteer work is not needed to the same levels, there is still a lot of rebuilding that is needed.

Our next blog piece though comes from Ester who volunteered in April 2011 and visited again in 2012 and she demonstrates the positive change in the region through pictures from ‘then and now’.

Filed under: March 11th Tsunami, Volunteering | Tagged: 2nd anniversary, InsideJapan Tours, ishinomaki, Tohoku, Travel, tsunami, volunteering | Leave a Comment »

Dr. Kanji – Japanese language master of mystery

Posted on 4 March, 2013 by jimbojapanam

After a long absence, the mysterious Dr. Kanji returns with musings about the Japanese language and comments on its use and evolution in the modern Japanese language that we can read, write and hear today ….but who is this doctor of the Chinese character?

The mystery of Dr Kanji is on a par with the whereabouts of Lord Lucan, who shot JFK and the man behind the mask of wrestling legend, Kendo Nagasaki. Perhaps we will never know….We hope to pick up the kanji comments from Dr Kanji every-now-and-then, but today the doctor talks about one popular character from early spring.

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One of the most popular events of the Japanese calendar is the coming of the cherry blossom or ‘sakura’. The tradition of ‘Hanami’ or flower viewing parties has been around for hundreds of years dating back to the Heian period (794-1185) when haiku would be written about the beautiful sakura petals. Although the blossom itself has not changed, the kanji character has evolved over the years.

Current kanji for sakura – 桜

Old kanji for sakura – 櫻

This old character consists of three parts – The characters for wood, shell and woman are all represented here.

In ancient China, people compared the beauty of cherry blossom fruits to that of a shell necklace around a women’s neck which is how the old kanji was created.

The most common sakura in Japan is that of the Somei Yoshino variety. Although it rarely produces fruit the pale blossom is considered the most beautiful and was developed as a hybrid plant by gardeners in the old Somei village (now part of Tokyo) during the Edo Period (1603-1868). The blossom front sweeps from the south through to the north from February in the subtropics to May in Hokkaido but the peak on main land Japan is in late March and earl April.

Another great insight to the crazy world of the Japanese language from the mysterious Dr. Kanji…until next time….we hope….

Filed under: Culture, Events, Language | Tagged: 'Japan travel', cherry blossom, Culture, Dr. Kanji, Festival, Festivals, Japanese language, sakura, Sightseeing | 1 Comment »

My favourite place in Japan – Jen Snow

Posted on 25 February, 2013 by jennifersnow1

We have some pretty good talent on the ground in Japan in our Nagoya office and leading tours around the country.One of our new tour leaders is Bostonian, Jen Snow. I would give you a little of Jen’s Japan background, but I will let her tell you herself.

Hello readers! My name is Jen, and I’m a new Tour Leader here at IJT. A little about myself – I first came to Japan during university through a study abroad program based in Kyoto, which is still my favourite city in the country, and one that I appreciate more and more each time I visit.

Not only can you appreciate the best of traditional culture in Kyoto, but as a college town, it is still a youthful and contemporary city – yet more laid back than the hustle-and-bustle atmosphere of Tokyo (although Tokyo is fun too for that very reason!).

Dragon stairs at Eikan-do Temple – one of my favourite temples in Kyoto

In fact, along with discovering new aspects of temples and shrines and taking excursions to Nara to visit the adorable deer, sometimes my favourite things to do in Kyoto are searching for good deals in the shopping arcades and relaxing with friends along the riverbank that runs near the centre of town.

Deer grazing in front of an art museum in Nara

I decided to continue pursuing my interest in Japanese culture in graduate school, where I received Masters degree in East Asian studies with a focus on Japanese cultural studies. As part of my degree, I participated in an intensive Japanese language and home stay program in Hakodate, Hokkaido, famous as the second city opened to the West in the 19^th century and a great place to experience the fusion of Japanese and Western architecture that emerged in the late 19^thcentury.

Following the disasters in Tohoku, I was eager to help my second-home in any way that I could, having volunteered in disaster areas in my own country quite a few times, and after completing my Masters , I went to the affected are to stay as a long-term volunteer at It’s Not Just Mud. I was inspired by locals who worked so diligently to rebuild their lives in the face of such devastating events and came to appreciate the natural beauty of the Northern Japanese countryside.

Like all our tour leaders, Jen is obviously passionate about Japan which comes across when you speak to her. Jen is keen to introduce the magic of Japan and the culture to anyone on her tour.

Filed under: Opinion, Travel | Tagged: 'Japan travel', Culture, favourite place, Japan, Japan trip, Japanese culture, Kyoto, Sightseeing, Tohoku, volunteering | Leave a Comment »

Tokaido Trailing Diaries – Past, Presents & Futuristic

Posted on 18 February, 2013 by jimbojapanam

The clement November temperatures saw Rob Harris and the other members of the Tokaido Trail with a ‘free day’ in Kyoto before travelling back to Tokyo and their final night in Japan. The ‘free day’ allows people to catch up with some of the many cultural sights in Kyoto, perhaps head to nearby Nara (just 45 minutes on the train), maybe go to Osaka for a bit of neon excitement and good food or head slightly further on the Shinkansen – The speed of the Bullet train makes even the long journeys short! Here is the final instalment of Rob’s Takaido Trailing Diaries….

Day 8, 9 & 10 Hiroshima, Tokyo and home

Day 8 – ‘Free Day’ Hiroshima

This was going to be one of those days that I both was looking forward to, and also treating with a slight sense of trepidation.

Leaving the hotel early, we caught the Shinkansen for the two hour journey to Hiroshima. Once again, I was clocking the trains’ speed on my GPS, this time reaching a peak of 171mph. That seemed a pretty trivial piece of information however, once we alighted from the tram at the A-Bomb Dome. The enormity of what we were seeing had an immediate effect on me, and from that point onwards, I seemed to constantly have a tear at the corner of my eye.

Modern-day Hiroshima is a very pretty, modern city with an almost European air to it, and it’s beyond comprehension to imagine the destruction which was inflicted upon it at 8.15am on August 6th, 1945. Walking around the Peace Memorial Park was a disquieting experience, taking in the many memorials erected to those affected by the bomb. Words failed me at how sobering and sombre the atmosphere at the museum was. Some of the images were very graphic and disturbing, but on a whole it has been executed in a sympathetic, non-judgemental fashion, simply stating the facts of why and how it unfolded. It holds nothing back in its portrayal of the events of that fateful day, and it largely acts as just a stark warning to learn from history and never, ever repeat it. It was far from a pleasant experience, but I felt it was a necessary one – to learn, to understand, and most importantly to pay my respects Once back in the park, I gently rang the Peace Bell as a final mark of respect, before meeting up with the others and heading off to hopefully lighten the mood a little.

Catching the JR train once again, we travelled a few stops further down the coast, before boarding the ferry across to Miyajima Island. The tide was reasonably kind to us, meaning we got a good sight of the famous “floating” torii gate, which stands just offshore and leads to the islands’ Itsukushima Shrine. The island is obviously a haven for Japanese and foreign tourists alike and was heaving with people and the local semi-tame deer which are allowed to roam at will (the deer, that is – the tourists are probably a lot more restricted!). Not having long before having to head back to catch our Shinkansen back to Kyoto, we just had the time to grab a quick spot of lunch, grab a souvenir or two and some photographs at the floating torii, before re-boarding the ferry back to the train station.

Another totally efficient bullet train ride saw us back in Kyoto with just enough time for a quick wash and change of clothes, before heading in to the city for some ramen noodles, a last walk past the numerous bars, and a second session of karaoke. A very long, but very rewarding and at times, emotionally-charged day came to a close by having a final beer and a song!

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Day 9– Kyoto to Tokyo

So, our last full day in Japan was upon us. It was unbelievable to think that our tour was nearly at an end, we’d done so much, seen so much, and travelled so far, we’d become accustomed to it, it seemed inconceivable to think it was almost over.

Fate smiled kindly on us on the return trip to Tokyo, as the skies were blue and cloudless. About half an hour before arriving in Tokyo, we were finally blessed with stunningly clear views of the elusive lady herself, Mount Fuji in all her magnificence – yet another iconic image ticked off my list. Getting off the train at Shinjuku station, the world’s busiest train station, we were bombarded with yet another different aspect of Japan and Tokyo itself. Shinjuku has a more chaotic, slightly seedier feel to it than other districts we’d already visited in Tokyo – that’s not a criticism though, as it was still brilliantly insane and a lot of fun. Walking up to the hotel, we thankfully were able to check in slightly early. I think by this time, most people were starting to feel slightly travel-weary and glad to take the weight off our feet – and our shoulders, as it was a major relief to be able to dump my rucksack on to the floor of my room!

I had intended at this point to take a trip up to Akihabara, the electronics district which I’d missed on our first visit to Tokyo, but I couldn’t bring myself to take another train journey quite so soon. Instead, a few of the group contented ourselves with grabbing a bento box (another “tick” on my list!) from a 7-11 store, scoffing that on the street, and then attempting to do some last minute gift shopping for the folks back home. Anyway, I reasoned that just like leaving the spire on top of a pagoda one ring short of the “perfect” ten, leaving myself one thing I hadn’t been able to tick off the list would give me the perfect excuse to come back to Japan just as soon as I could possibly manage.

Our last night’s meal was at an Izakaya restaurant just across from our hotel, and this was probably the longest time we spent in a restaurant the entire trip – the Japanese don’t really seem to do the whole long-drawn-out dining experience like some European nations do, it’s more a case of “in, eat, out”. We all thanked Alain for his outstanding support and guidance during the trip, and passed on our gratitude to him. Having someone with his knowledge and passion for Japan really made our tour an unforgettable experience, and his enthusiasm proved infectious. Throughout, he had been nothing but attentive and efficient, giving us great confidence to get out there by ourselves and start exploring on our own. As last parting gift, Alain reckoned that we’d had a mild tremor whilst dining as he’d seen the tables shaking gently from side to side – nobody else had really noticed, but by this time, we trusted our tour guide implicitly!

There was one last thing I had to do, but was reluctant to part company with my new-found friends on the last night. I headed off on my own to take in the legendary Shibuya crossing for myself. Witnessing the neon-lit, well-mannered sheer insanity of hundreds of people crossing from all points of the compass, at the same time, was truly a sight to behold! I was amazed at how the swathes of people somehow managed to navigate their way through the oncoming crowds, all impeccably politely with no jostling, bumping, or grumbling.

Returning back to the hotel on the train, something else struck me – just how at ease and relaxed I felt. Despite being alone, in a foreign city, late at night, surrounded by people who probably had about as much English as I had Japanese, it felt remarkably natural and easy. There was no air of unease simmering beneath the surface that there might have been in the UK, and everyone still seemed friendly, well-mannered, and relaxed. I really did love this country and its people.

Day 10 – Back to reality

An early start, and what seemed a marathon walk through Shinjuku Station, to catch the Narita Express taking us to the airport and our flights home.

I was incredibly sad to be leaving Japan, and that our utterly brilliant time out there was at an end. The tour had been outstanding from start to finish, and had far exceeded my expectations. I’d experienced everything I’d wanted to (except Akihabara!), and the fact that I’d made some new friends along the way was an added and very welcome bonus – the people I’d met on the trip had, for me, made the tour truly special. Without a doubt, I had totally fallen for Japan, its people, and its charms, it is simply the best country I have ever visited, and it had left an indelible mark on me. I will miss it terribly until I return, but the memories I have will always be with me, and the country itself will forever be a part of me.

Thank you to InsideJapan Tours and everyone else on the Tokaido Trail. I am already planning and saving for my return in 2013!

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Thank you so much to Rob for sharing his Tokaido Trail experiences with us. It is really good to read through Rob’s Tokaido Trail diary and takes me back to my tour leading days. I often forget how much stuff actually goes into these trips. Even in a 10 day period, there is an incredible amount you can do and experience in Japan and it sounds like Rob did most of it….apart from Akihabara! Apparently, we have another Japan fan on board, which is always great to know. I sincerely hope that you get over there again soon Rob and I am sure that Japan will love to see you again soon.

Filed under: Culture, Sightseeing, Tours, Travel | Tagged: 'Japan travel', Culture, Hiroshima, InsideJapan Tours, Japan, Japan trip, Kyoto, Sightseeing, Tokaido trail, tokyo, Trains, Travel | 2 Comments »

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