Okinawa’s Haunted Hotel

View of the hotel from the Nakagusuku-jo Castle site

View of the hotel from the Nakagusuku-jo Castle site

This Halloween, some friends and I decided that before we followed the crowd to the photo-fest that is the costume party at Okinawa’s American Village, we would seek out a notorious abandoned (and reputedly haunted) hotel near the ruins of Nakagusuku-jo castle.

The Japanese are seriously superstitious, and when some of our Japanese friends heard about our plans they tried to deter us, assuring us that we would probably die – or at the very least be possessed by evil spirits. In the end we decided that the place sounded too interesting not to check out, and shrugging off warnings of death, doom and bloody exorcisms, we set off on our merry way.


There is a particularly creepy backstory to this never-finished hotel, which was reputedly begun in the 1970s by a businessman from Naha who wanted to capitalise on the location right beside a UNESCO world heritage site. Ignoring warnings from locals and monks that he was building too close to the site of ancient tombs and that his hotel would impinge on a sacred cave where restless spirits wandered, the unnamed businessman began his vast development right next to Nakahusuku-jo Castle. Over the course of the development several employees died under mysterious circumstances, and frightened workers abandoned the project believing that it was cursed.

Still undeterred, the businessman pledged to sleep at the hotel until the project was finished to prove that there was nothing to fear from bogeymen and restless spirits. After that, the story goes that he lasted three nights before he was driven insane, and reports disagree as to whether he killed himself or was committed to an asylum.

Of course, there are more realistic explanations for the hotel’s abandonment, but they’re not half as exciting!

View from the top of the hotel complex

View from the top of the hotel complex

Arriving at Nakagusuku-jo, it was easy to see why one might want to build in such a beautiful spot. Accessed through the site of the castle ruins, the development boasts incredible views of both the Pacific and the East China Sea, with the ruins spread out below it and jungle on all sides.

The building itself is a vast shell, which can be seen silhouetted on its hill from miles around. Inside is a maze of haphazard corridors and staircases littered with detritus, in the process of being reclaimed by the forest around it. I have to admit that, wandering around the place, it wasn’t hard to understand why locals were so spooked by it.

Whilst it may not be everybody’s cup of tea, the ruins of the Royal Hotel (Or Takara Hotel as it is also known) make an interesting and haunting juxtaposition to the very different ruins next-door. Enter at your own peril!





Tour of Tokyo

I was recently asked to take some travelers on manga and anime inspired journey around Tokyo. Yet, like any of the world’s truly great cities, Tokyo simply can’t be seen in a day or even a week. There are far too many out of the way neighborhoods, back-street cafes, mind-blowing museums and unadvertised izakayas even for those of us who call Tokyo home to see it all; I still stumble across new experiences on an almost daily basis! Nevertheless, I was determined to give these keen adventurers a sense of what this great city is all about and that is exactly what we did!

Our day started in the Asakusa district. Although it is more famous for its traditional side, the area’s modern architecture is always impressive.

Starting early, we went straight to Senso-ji Temple to learn a bit about Buddhism and gain a better understanding of how it has interacted with Japan’s native Shinto religion throughout the country’s long and fascinating history. The centerpiece of this complex is the towering building of the temple’s main hall, we wandered around in the shadow of Senso-ji’s graceful 5-story pagoda and envisioned old Japan. Something that is surprisingly easy to do even while in the very centre of modern Tokyo. Nearby, we explored manga cafes, pachinko parlors and traditional Japanese comedy before making our way to the Sumida River where we caught our futuristic water bus to Odaiba, a man-made island with an artificial beach that sits right in the centre of Tokyo Bay.

The Gundam Front museum in Odaiba is well worth a visit even if you’ve never heard of Gundam or have no interest in anime. This is the perfect introduction!

Disembarking at Odaiba’s Seaside Park you realize quickly that this is a very different side of Tokyo. Aside from the long sandy beach, Odaiba also offers sweeping views of the elegant Rainbow Bridge and Tokyo’s skyline across the bay. For us, it was directly to Gundam Front, a theatre and museum celebrating one of Japan’s most popular anime. Even if the massive replica of the fighting robot (Gundam) fails to impress you, rest assured that the domed theatre will give you a perfect introduction into the artisan that is Japanese animation.

Just down the road is the National Museum of Emerging Science and Innovation; a fantastic museum that offers all the proof you could ask for that Japan is still as cutting edge as ever. Navigate your way through holograms of Japan’s seismic activity, see what happens to a Cup O’ Noodles container 6000 meters under the sea and watch the famous robot Asimov perform 3 times a day.

The National Museum of Emerging Science and Innovation in Odaiba.

Getting close to lunch time but not quite ready for our meal with maids (more to come on that…) we sat down to a delicious snack of octopus balls. Note: ‘balls’ refers to the shape of snack and not part of the octopi’s anatomy!

Taking the zippy Yurikamome monorail line, we got some great views of the rainbow bridge and made quick time to the modern and prestigious Shiodome district. As soon as we got off the train we came face-to-face with the massive Ghibli steampunk clock, designed by the Walt Disney of Japan himself, Miyazaki Hayao!

After all this excitement and modernity, we were more than ready for a bit of relaxation so we stopped off for a little peak at the tea ceremony and a dose of tranquility in the exquisitely manicured Hamarikyu Gardens. These Japanese gardens date back to the days of the shogun and are carefully looked after by a small army of gardeners.

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After our well-deserved stop at the gardens, we left rested and ready for more. Making use of Tokyo’s fantastic trains, we went straight to that mecca of manga and anime… Akihabara! This district is full of electronics and video games and manga and anime and toy models and has served as the colorful backdrop to many a travel show. But we came for lunch at a maid cafe! To be sure, this experience can be a little surreal to say the least but it is also quintessentially Japanese and a lot of fun. Not only are your servers dressed in maid outfits, they also put on dance performances and go through hand motions that are meant to make your food more delicious… though the efficacy of this is probably better left untested.

Whether it’s a bright green melon soda that you’re after or merely a Japanese om-rice with a picture of a bunny drawn in ketchup on it, this is the place!


After our late lunch, we wandered around Akihbara taking in cosplay outfits, video game karaoke boxes and teenagers dancers working themselves into a frenzy for a new high score before making our way to Shibuya and the world’s busiest pedestrian intercrossing.

ImageEvery 30 seconds, when the traffic signals turn red and the green man reappears another wave of human bodies seemingly come from thin air and invade the giant zebra crossing. Like a choreographed dance, they zoom across the just in time for the whole process to repeat itself again and again.

But Shibuya has far more than just a big pedestrian intercrossing. This district has great shopping, cool cafes and plenty of amazing restaurants. Even better, it is also only a short walk away from Harajuku and Tokyo’s Meiji Jingu Shinto Shrine.

Much like Hamarikyu Gardens, this shrine is a bastion of quietude set in the middle of one of Tokyo’s most ‘buzzing’ districts. It was the perfect place for a bit of reflection on Japanese society and a great opportunity to compare and contrast with the Buddhist temple that we started at this morning. Explaining the intricacies of these two religions is something that I have come to love because I feel like it helps people get a grasp on this wonderful country and all the great things that they will be seeing as they travel around.

The sake casks at the entrance to Meiji Shrine.

The sake casks at the entrance to Meiji Shrine.

The iconic Tokyo Tower at sunset.

Standing on the top of Tokyo

One of our recent Tokaido Trailers, Jenny Gillman, wanted to tell us about her trip to the Tokyo Skytree. Jenny was keen to go and see inside Tokyo’s newest addition to the Metropolisskyline for herself. Here is what she had to say about the 634 metre tower.

After a smooth flight and a warm welcome at the airport from my InsideJapan Tour’s tour leader (Harry Sargant), three of the group dropped bags off at the hotel in Asakusa and headed out to explore. We visited nearby Senso-Ji temple before the other two members of the group went off for a shop. I went off to discover the Tokyo Skytree which dominates the skyline in this part of Tokyo. One stop from Asakuka, with train guards to point me in the correct direction, I arrived at the Skytree on the Skytree train! After quite a few sets of escalators you arrive onto the 5th floor of the Skytree.

I queued for approximately 1 hour and 45 minutes and chatted to very friendly locals. After paying 200oyen we went up in a lift which opens onto the view of Toyko below – there was a collective “wow” when the doors of the lift opened to reveal Tokyo below. After seeing the whole of the city and a view of the bay (on a clear day you can see Mt Fuji) I waited another 10 minutes and paid another 1000yen which would get me to the very top! This lift ride would take me to the top of the worlds tallest freestanding building and reveal incredible view. It was well worth paying the extra money and I had lots of fun walking around the spiral walkway to the glass floor and standing 452.1 metres above the city!

The Skytree is a brilliant way the start any trip to Toyko, as it gives you a really good idea as to the huge scale of the city. There’s nothing like standing at the top of the world’s biggest tower in the worlds biggest Metropolis contemplating your trip beyond the horizon.

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Iwate: A green and pleasant land.

Wedged up in the corner of North East Japan, Iwate prefecture is economically one of the poorest parts of the country.  But in terms of natural wealth, it`s one of the richest.  This week I visited its two stunning National Parks: the elevated volcanic marshlands at Hachimantai and the white beaches and towering cliffs on the tsunami-hit Sanriku coastline.

A 90 minute bus ride from Morioka, Iwate`s capital, took me to the entrance to Mount Chausu.  Then for 4 hours I followed a well-marked trail – in a biblical downpour.  I knew that craters filled with black, acidic waters were scattered around the Hachimantai peak – unfortunately I could barely see any of them.  The path soon turned into a river.  Choosing the rainy season to visit wetlands was perhaps not my best idea; but at least escpaing Tokyo`s humidity I could liberate my lungs.

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My second day in the north was like a fine English summer`s day, blue skies and warm.  This time I took a 2 hour bus ride from Morioka through densely forested valleys to the port of Miyako on the Sanriku coast.

Armed with a bag full of maps – all supplied by the grinning girls at Morioka Tourist Information - I was ready to explore.  I made my way by local bus to the modern Jodogahama Visitors Centre.  Clusters of excited tourists wandered about inside.  The displays, well-annotated in English, told the story of the Sanriku coastline:  “one of the most vulnerable areas to tsunamis in the world.”  The displays were written before the tragedy last March.

Out of habit, I found myself latching onto a tour group.  The energetic tour leader led us all onto the kanransen pleasure boat.  I quickly had to get off though – I needed to buy a ticket.

The boat survived the tsunami; it was out at sea when the main waves hit.  But sea conditions were so unstable, the boat could not return to shore for a day and a half.  The crew ended up eating all the bread normally reserved for feeding the umineko (seagulls).

On the cruise, the air hostess-dressed guide told us about a nearby hamlet called Aneyoshi, where the tsunami reached a record height of 40 metres – yet thanks to heeding the warnings of past disasters, none of the buildings were damaged.

Businesses continue to struggle in Iwate; thousands of people remain stuck in cramped temporary accommodation.  But the natural beauty still sparkles, and visitors are warmly welcomed.  I know I`ll be going back.

Make Holidays Greener – Part 1

July is ‘Make Holidays Greener‘ month, a campaign across the UK travel industry organised by the Bristol based charity, the Travel Foundation.

At InsideJapan Tours we like to think our holidays are pretty sustainable all year round. Here are some reasons why:

1. Our Small Group Tours have a minimum group size of 14. Better group dynamics, no ‘tour bus bubble’, instead you get close to the places and people you are visiting.

2. We encourage clients to visit rural areas, where tourist money helps to revitalise depopulated communities.

3. Think local: A stay in a family-run inn is a highlight of any Japan trip!

4. And don’t just think local; regional, seasonal Japanese food is amazing.

5. All of our trips make use Japan’s fantastic public transport.

6. We only include car hire for very off-the-beaten track locations, and then it’s a Toyota Prius.

7. All the hotels and ryokan we use complete our health & safety survey every other year. The survey includes Sustainable Tourism questions to encourage hotels and ryokans to conserve energy and resources, and reduce waste.

8. We encourage interaction with local people. On Self-Guided trips we recommend spending a day or two with a local private guide to give you the real lowdown on Japanese culture & history.

9. Japan’s traditional culture is unique and deserves to be preserved for future generations. We can include sumo tickets, ikebana lessons, tea ceremony and much more in any Japan holiday.

10. Japan has fantastic wildlife and we support the sanctuaries and charities that protect it like the Shinshu Asiatic Black Bear Conservation Group. We avoid bear parks or zoos in Japan where we feel wild animals are kept in cruel conditions.

11. Why not visit an eco-lodge or try your hand at local farming techniques on a rural farm stay?

Please click here to read more about our Sustainable Tourism policy at InsideJapan Tours.

Tsurui to Rausu: From cranes in the river to bears in the bath.

I recently finished leading the Winter Highlights tour of Hokkaido.   This spectacular tour features snow monkeys in Nagano, ice sculptures in Sapporo and maiko-spotting in Kyoto.  Those highlights get coverage elsewhere.  So I have chosen to write about a tour day in eastern Hokkaido, one of the lesser known parts of Japan, yet one full of incredible encounters.  

Our lodgings were in the small inland village of Tsurui,  on the edge of the Kushiro marshland national park.  We woke at 6am with the outside temperature at minus 20.  Unaware of the cold outside, we were cocooned inside heated, wood-panelled bedrooms at the welcoming Woody Lodge.  Our early rise was for a 6:30am appointment with Ando-san, an expert on local wildlife and photography

Ando-san, a proud owner of all the latest Swarovski and Nikon equipment, took us to some great spots to see tancho.  Tancho are rare red-crowned cranes that somehow survive -20 standing naked in the warmest parts of the river.  On his secret viewing spot above the river, Ando-san lent us his scope for close-ups of the tancho

-20 was not as much of a problem as I expected.  None of our group suffered badly: there was no biting wind to chill our bones and everybody was well-prepared for arctic conditions.  Yet the thought of parting with even one of my 8 layers of clothing terrified me.  How the native Ainu survived winters up here without central heating, kairo heatpads and tight-knit long johns I`ll never know. 

After seeing the tancho we returned to Woody lodge where the chef, a local girl and former New York resident, had prepared our breakfast.  Her time living overseas was not wasted, as well as speaking excellent English, she is an excellent cook, making us a superb breakfast.  Her Mum`s homemade champagne-flavoured apple jam is worth getting up at anytime for.

After breakfast our kind, jovial bus driver took us back to Ando-san at the bird sanctuary.  Tancho`s flew over our heads, landed twenty metres in front of us, then graciously danced for us.  Actually, Ando-san informed us, they were dancing for each other, an annual - kotoshi mo yoroshiku - please be nice to me this year dance. 

We had plenty of time in the sanctuary for close-up photography before heading for a drive in the marshlands.  On the way, a kita kitsune, northern fox posed for photographs by the side of the road.  We then said goodbye to Ando-san, and headed further east, deeper into the snow-coated wilderness.

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After tempura and soba noodle lunch, we rode along the narrow Notsuke peninsula, a diversion recommended by Ando-san.  Looking out the bus window, eagles and northern foxes appeared in front of the dark, forbidding waves of the Okhotsk Sea with the snow-capped peaks of Kunashiri, the disputed Russian-held islands looming beyond. 

Our final destination was Rausu, a small fishing port on the Shiretoko peninsula world heritage site.  Only the coast road in Rausu stays open in winter, the inland road gets cut off by heavy snowfall.  This remote peninsula really felt like the exposed edge of Japan. 

Actually not all of the valley road is closed,  the snow is ploughed for 1km, up as far as Kumanoyu, the Bear Bath.  The Bear Bath, a 10 minute trudge up from our hotel, has two rotenburo, outdoor hot spring baths, one for men and one for women.  Free to enter, the bath, changing rooms and walkways are all maintained by locals, members of the Rausu Onsen Appreciation Society.

I will never have a bath like it.  Wearing hiking boots to trek through snow in the darkness, then shedding all 8 layers in a rickety wooden shed before stepping cautiously over icy concrete to get in a bath so hot I regretted not bringing a cup and teabag. 

The intense heat quickly warmed me up, then slowly started to cook me.  For a while I took a masochistic pleasure in seeing how long I could last, then I feared the smell of burning flesh.  

Kumanoyu is notoriously hot, the man working at the hotel reception had warned me about it when he lent me a torch.  Perhaps it is called the Bear Bath because bears are the only animals hardy enough to tolerate it. Eventually I had to plunge the cold water hose in to lower the temperature. 

Nurui! Nurui! (It`s cold! It`s cold!),” a couple of locals who got in after me squealed out.  Cold?  Putting the cold water hose in for a few seconds may have taken the temperature down – but surely no more than half a degree.  I regretted not observing them closer, surely no human could ever complain of cold sitting in that bath, perhaps they were bears tired of the annual tedium of hibernation.

Tokyo Ghost Hunting – who ya gonna call?!

One of our Tokyo based tour leaders, Axel Derbouraix has recently been discovering a slightly scarier side of Tokyo. Here is what he had to say,

Like many boys of my generation, after watching ‘Ghostbusters’, I imagined myself chasing demons and goblins of all sorts. Eventually, fifteen years later, I contacted ‘Haunted Tokyo Tours’ and fulfilled my dream… in Tokyo. The monstrously huge metropolis is an ideal setting for ghost stories and urban legends of all sorts. Ask Lilly about it!

My host was not a nerdy university professor moonlighting as ghost hunting expert but a knowledgeable American lady resident of Tokyo for many years. Lilly has been running ghost tours in Tokyo for the past 99 years.

Tours run once a week, last 2-3 hours and could take you on a Goblin hunt or you may like to follow the trail of cursed samurais or meet the demons of the red light district. The tours are very informative and lively, yet it can get spooky at times. Don’t be afraid because Lilly is equipped with the latest Ghost tracking device (EMF).

These Gaulish tours of Tokyo are a great way of seeing an alternative side to the city and can be arranged by InsideJapan…..if you dare!

Crabs, stags and the sweet monk: Walking the Kumano trail

It started with an onsen and finished with a waterfall.  The two-day hike in the hills, from Yunomine Onsen to the waterfall at Nachi, frequently took my breath away.  Fortunately, there was an abundance of fresh air around to revive me. 

I spent around six hours on the trail each day.  I didn`t need climbing skills, which is fortunate, as I don`t have any.  A half-decent pair of walking shoes and a half-decent pair of lungs were enough to get me up and down the hills.

View looking out to Koguchi village where I stayed on the 2nd night


Rare sign of human life in the morning mist at Koguchi.


The path took me along the Nakahechi trail, part of the old Imperial Route traversed by Emperors making a pilgrimage south from Kyoto.  Two days trekking led me up and down the high hills of the Ogumotori-goe and Kogumotori-goe sections – the route is illustrated on this excellent Kumano website.

I had plenty of company, but little of it was human.  I stepped over tiny red forest-crabs, met 3 perky pensioners picking wild mushrooms, chatted with the birds and insects – I had trouble with their accents,  startled a stag or two and passed a couple of speed-marching foreign tourists. 

I can`t really describe the variety of trees, I literally can`t, except to say the colour tones, shapes and sizes were distinct on each section.  I soon filled a memory card anyway.  Perhaps I will spend the Christmas break learning the difference between a cedar, a cheddar and a cider.  Should be fun.

The series of typhoons in September left loose branches scattered across the trail, otherwise the ancient route survived the freak weather virtually unscathed.  Japanese tourists have been temporarily put off, so I had the birds, trees and old tea houses all to myself.  At one point, I must have been the only human being for miles in any direction. 

Signs posted in Japanese and English drip-fed me stories of the old Kumano.  Approching Nachi, I came across this entry hinting at the pilgrims` diet:

“An 18th century pilgrim`s diary stated that the Hatago [inn] where he stayed was very hospitable, but unfortunately, because monkeys and deers had raided their garden, there were only dried ferns to eat. Another Hatago attracted business from weary pilgrims with this simple but effective sales pitch: `We have Tofu. Bath is ready`. “

Thankfully, Kumano cuisine has more bite to it these days.  The locally caught tuna, raw and cooked, was a particular highlight. 

Twigs and leaves carpeted the trail in places

Bento lunch with view out to Nachi and the Pacific Ocean


Kind Nachi minshuku owner who gave me a reason to flee my futon at 4am

Each night, the friendly welcomes, hot baths and cooked dinners made for memorable experiences.  At Mitaki Sanso, the minshuku by Nachi waterfall, the kind owner even organised for me to participate in the morning Buddhist service at Seigantoji temple.  At the time, I did not think the owner was kind – the service began at 4:30am – but I have had two weeks to recover since then.  

On reflection, the intimate service was well-worth the early rise.  I particularly fondly recall the moment when I got up from the tatami ready to leave the temple.  The Head Monk came towards me through wafts of incense smoke, smiled and handed me a packet of, “Japanese Sweets”.  Faith has its rewards.

This hike on the Kumano trail forms part of the new for 2012, Emperors` Footsteps small group tour.

Walking with Emperors: The Kumano trail

Peaks and ridges of the Kumano.

Stop, look and listen: an ocean of green-topped hills; nothing in sight, except blue sky, green forest and the moss-matted trail; no sound except, birdsong and your own panting breath; no thought except, why have I not done this before?

The secluded Kumano rises to the south of Kyoto and Osaka.  An estimated 3,600 peaks and ridges line its horizon; the heavily-forested hillsides make a great home for wildlife – and the Gods of ancient Japan.

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Happy kanji

The Japanese language is so complicated, multi-layered and interesting, even for a novice speaker like me.  Here’s a kanji character that I like a lot:

聴く   きく   kiku  to hear; to listen; to ask

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