Walking with Emperors: The Kumano trail

Peaks and ridges of the Kumano.

Stop, look and listen: an ocean of green-topped hills; nothing in sight, except blue sky, green forest and the moss-matted trail; no sound except, birdsong and your own panting breath; no thought except, why have I not done this before?

The secluded Kumano rises to the south of Kyoto and Osaka.  An estimated 3,600 peaks and ridges line its horizon; the heavily-forested hillsides make a great home for wildlife – and the Gods of ancient Japan.

Over a thousand years ago, rumours of spiritual powers lurking in the Kumano reached Kyoto, then the capital of Japan – and one of the biggest cities in the world.  Emperors made a month-long trek down from Osaka to beg favours from the Gods.

Over the next centuries, the Kumano creed emerged, a blend of imported Buddhist and indigenous Shinto and Shugendo beliefs.  All Japanese society was affected.

Female nuns, called bikuni, went up and down the country preaching, sparking a Kumano-craze.  Long lines of pilgrims, from the poorest rice farmer up, filled the teahouse-lined trails - then known as ari no Kumano-mode – the Kumano pilgrimage of ants.

Three Head Shrines at Hongu, Nachi and Shingu attracted the most visitors.  Of these, the two most well-known now are Hongu and Nachi.  Hongu hides in the hills; Nachi hugs the coastline – beneath the tallest waterfall in Japan.

The sacred sites at Hongu and Nachi are connected by a two day World Heritage walk through wild woodland.  Next week, I`ll tell you about my recent pant along it.

A hike on the Kumano trail is the highlight of the new Emperors` Footsteps small group tour.

6 Responses

  1. Wow, sounds like an amazing area. More western visitors need to get out to the Kumano Trail. A great reward for those who get off the beaten track.

  2. Looking forward to it Tom. I have hiked some of this trail and loved it. It is such a pretty area. Do you know if the shukubo at Nachi Taisha has re-opened?

  3. The Mitaki Sanso is open. I had a great stay there, by the waterfall, including participating in the 4:30am service at the Buddhist temple around the corner. For some reason, the Head monk gave me a large packet of Japanese sweets when I left. Jelly babies must have more spiritual meaning than I imagined.

    Glad you enjoyed it too, Mat. I have put your name down for the tour along with Maddy`s. If you could just send me your bank details……

  4. Hello there!!

    I’ve been reading your posts recently on your site and they were all quite resourceful. I really enjoyed reading. I was wondering if you’re open for guest posts, as I can submit one that would definitely be enjoyed by your readers.

    Hope to hear from you soon.

    Regards, Paul.

  5. I love forests in general and those beautiful Japanese forests in particular.

    I am not familiar with the Kumano trail, I guess I will have to remedy that. Thanks for the pictures!

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