Japan Geisha Dreams

It is always nice to hear from our customers; especially if they absolutely love Japan…thankfully, more often than not, they usually find themselves loving it. It is fantastic receiving feedback that is so gushing about Japan and its culture and the services that we provide, we get a warm feeling in the knowledge that we have had a part in converting someone else to the wonders of this beautiful place.

Gemma Scott travelled back in April 2012 on the Spring Elegance group tour which seems a long time ago now, but she was full of praise about the great country and the memories are obvciously very vivid. If she wasn’t before, Gemma is now what you would class as a ‘Japanophile’ I believe. We thought we would ask her expand on her feedback, tell us about the best bits and show us some of her beautiful photos and are glad that she accepted! Here is what she had to say;

I have always been fascinated by Japan, the culture, the lifestyle, the food. After researching into travelling to Japan, I opted for the Spring Elegance tour – Two whole weeks of experiencing one of the most intriguing and beguiling places on Earth.

The tour took me to several different cities and towns, on the main island of Honshu. Tokyo both old (Edo as Tokyo was known as prior to the Meiji period) and modern day with museums, shrines, temples, the contrast of beautiful gardens with a backdrop of the skyscraper district, penetrating the sky.

Matusmoto and its stunning castle (a word or warning – the sets of stairs inside are steep, with one set in particular at a 61 degree incline – complete with a rope to help pull yourself up the stairs with!), with a small side trip to the onsen (hot spring bathhouse) at Asama – a must!

Takayama the home of miso and sake, sitting in one of the many sake shops with the tour group sipping on a sample of sake, was a great way to bond.

The Kenroku-en Gardens in Kanazawa, it is rated as one of the top three gardens in Japan. Considering it is quite simply breathtaking, it is not hard to see why.

Kyoto – the old capital of Japan, before Edo – Tokyo, and the first place that comes to mind when you think of Geisha. Here the Geisha are so proud of who they are and where they are from, that they prefer to be called Geiko, so to be set apart from Geisha from any other part of Japan.

Here I took a day trip to Hiroshima where the first atomic bomb was dropped on 6 August 1945 (a date you will never forget by the time you leave). This was a very sombre day, learning about what had happened before, during and after the bomb has been detonated. It was morbidly fascinatingbut equally spine-chilling.

The penultimate stop was Hakone, home to Mount Fuji. On the day we took a trip round the national park, and saw Mount Fuji, it was a lovely sunny day. We had some spectacular views of Fuji. Her first appearance was on a cable car ride up the side of a volcano, with further opportunities was we took a boat ride around Lake Ashi.  Lastly we made our way back to Tokyo, for a one night stay in the modern part of Tokyo before bidding farewell to new friends and boarding the plane homeward bound.

The highlight of the tour is what I have come to call “My Geisha Day” in Kyoto.  It all started with a session at a Geisha makeover studio. The session has to be booked in advance, which our tour leader was all to happy to arrange on my behalf. The package I had chosen was the Maiko (an apprentice Geisha) makeover. The whole process from make up, putting on the kimono to photo shoot took 2 hours in total. It was fascinating to watch all the different stages come together.  A few of the ladies on my tour joined me having makeover as well, we had great fun choosing the kimono that we were going to wear. Watching each stage come together, the make up – whitening of the face, painting the double or triple “v” on the back of the neck (the neck is considered a very sensual part of the body in Japan, and the “v“ is used to create an illusion to elongate the nape of the neck). The highlighting of the eyes in black and red makeup and the vivid red lips.

The kimono itself is a robe that comes in one size. It has a band of plain material across the middle. This section can be left as it is, or be taken up to shorten the kimono to fit. There are many layers to a kimono outfit. The kimono does make up the bulk of the outfit, but there are under garments, ties, sashes, belts, collars and the obi to be added during the process.  Not to mention the wig complete with pins and jewellery (the wigs were put on, already dressed). The visual transformation was amazing to see. The photographs were spectacular. If you are fascinated by Geisha, or are looking for a personalised souvenir, then I would recommend a makeover package. If you go with friends or family from the tour, it’s a great way to spend a good time together.

The rest of the afternoon was spent making our way to Gion Corner to watch the Geisha Spring Dance. As you entered the room for the serving of tea, you were sat down in rows and the tea and a sweet were served to everyone. The type of green tea served is called Matcha and is dark and quite bitter. You do not put sugar in the tea. Therefore a sweet is served alongside the tea. You eat the sweet first, to sweeten your mouth and then drink the tea. It does make a big difference in taste. This part was quite rushed as there were a lot of people waiting, but it was still an experience to watch the Maiko prepare the tea for the room, looking stunning in their full regalia.

The time had come to take our seats and get ready to watch the dance. The stage had catwalks either side, with the seating in the middle. There were curtains set back into the catwalks. The lights turned down and doors opened at the ends of the catwalks. Here a group of Maiko made their entrance, the curtains were drawn, on the left sat Maiko playing percussion (drums) and flute and on the right sat Geisha singing and playing shamisen. The first scene would be a highlight of the dance with about 20 dancers on stage. The following seven would each tell a story, linking itself into the previous scene in some way. They transcend from Spring, to Summer, to Autumn, to Winter and back to Spring for the finale, with about 60 Maiko and Geiko on stage.

The whole performance was lavish, extravagant, beautiful and vibrant. From the incredibly detailed sets – the individual blossoms and leaves on the trees, the hundreds of tiny optic light representing fireflies, to the backdrops which undulated to depict the waves of the sea. The costumes were rich, bold and imaginative from the men that fought brave battles, to the kimono of the Maiko and Geiko twirling as they danced in unison, their hair ornaments twinkling in the stage lights. The music was enchanting and riveting, enhanced by the emotions portrayed in the voices of the singers. They could build the atmosphere between two lovers sorrow as lovers parted ways, the violent storms endured at sea, and dramatic battle scenes that brought death and glory.

Needless to say I was enraptured from start to finish. Which is also true of the whole journey, the experience. I am afraid that I have fallen in love with Japan, even more so, than before I had decided to make the journey and land on Japanese soil. Turning a journey of a lifetime in to what maybe, in time, a home from home.

Welcome to the ‘we went to Japan and fell in love with it and everything about it’ club Gemma. Glad we could help you get there. It sounds as though there will be many other travels to Japan in the future. We are very happy to hear it!

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Haiku from Spring Elegance Tour April 2012

Here is a selection of some of the Haiku that my Spring Elegance tour group came up with in a semi-inebriated state during our last dinner together.

Drink Japanese sake,

Eat tempura, sashimi,

You are Japanese.

 

We were very dry,

Our yen pieces at the ready,

Vending machines –  great!

 

If you want to go,

Lift the lid and let it flow,

Press button, heigh ho!

 

The day started hot,

Zen temples oh so quiet,

Later beer refreshed.

 

Spray and hot toilets,

Or hard squatting over bowl,

Not shoes off again!

 

New friends, new culture,

Made one by spring elegance,

My life is richer.

 

Miso oh Miso!

Every morn I see you,

Then you are no more.

 

Cameras are poised,

Cherry blossom is blooming,

Shame about the rain.

 

Chopsticks, yes, well, um…

Its not that I’m prejudiced,

I just prefer forks.

 

That teasing mistress,

Fuji in modesty towel,

Never showed herself.

 

I don’t think I’ll miss

Sitting on tatami mats,

But oh! the toilets.

 

Misty lakes, fast trains,

Beautiful trees flower too,

Where is Mount Fuji?

By  Steve Parker (Tour Leader)

Take me home country road…

I am sure that by now, you have realised what a talented bunch we are at IJT….if not, please don’t judge me on my picture on the website staff profiles! Anyway, IJT UK’s newest member Rie Fujimoto recently returned to Japan for the first time after moving to the UK and wanted to share her thoughts on her homecoming trip and travel experiences. Enjoy!

 

As the newest member of the UK IJT team I am the only native Japanese in the UK office. I moved to the UK in 2010 and until this Spring I had not been home to visit my family in Yamaguchi (the last prefecture on the island of Honshu before you get to Kyushu). Actually Yamaguchi has a lot to offer itself and is well worth a visit rather than passing through on the bullet train which is unfortunately what most tourists tend to do.

A lot has happened since I came to the UK including the devastating earthquake and tsunami in Tohoku which was deeply saddening. Thankfully all my friends and family were OK, but my heart goes out to those that are still rebuilding their lives and homes.

The day I left Japan to come to the UK, our Prime Minister changed … again! Actually I went to the same high school as Mr Kan from Ube Yamaguchi, but like his predecessors his term didn’t last long. Japan seems to get through Prime Ministers at the same rate it produces new Kit Kat flavours!

So my reason for going home was of course to see my family as well as to do a bit of travelling to some unfamiliar parts. Armed with a Japan Rail Pass , I set off on the long 3 stop flight back to Yamaguchi. I arrived to find that nothing much has really changed back home. The one thing that hit me the most was the smell of soy sauce at the udon shop at the airport! (a very natsukashii moment to be cherished!). I really appreciated the fine and consistent/predictable weather. I didn’t really appreciate the weather in Japan until I started living in the UK! It was nice to be back in my own kitchen where I can reach everything! And the bright cheery service in shops brought a welcome smile to my face; although I found myself this time refusing the endless packaging and unnecessary wrapping that Japan seems so obsessed with.

After a few days with my family, my mother, grandmother and I set off to Kagoshima in Southern Kyushu famous for one of Japan’s most active volcanoes (Sakurajima) and its black pigs (Kuro-buta). With the opening of the new Kyushu direct Shinkansen line to Kagoshima Chuo from mainland Honshu it takes just 2 hours to cover a distance of 375km from Yamaguchi when previously it had taken around 5 hours with a change at Hakata (Fukuoka). The point of visiting Kagoshima – one to see the infamous volcano which had exploded again just days before we arrived and secondly to explore the area to the West famous for its hot volcanic sand baths where you can enjoy being buried alive on the beach!

The new Shinkansen is a joy to ride – so wide and comfortable; you could almost forget you are in standard class. Being married to a Brit does have its advantages – cheap rail travel back home!

We stayed just one night in Kagoshima. First we visited the famous samurai houses in Chiran (1 hour from Kagoshima Chuo by bus). We then headed west to Ibusuki famous for its hot sand baths – a comical photo opportunity well worth the 900yen it costs for your grave to be dug for you to fit snugly inside. Actually the sand is quite hot so it comes with several health warnings and an egg timer will let you know when your time is up! We also visited Nagasaki-bana where we could see the stunning view of Mt. Kaimon-dake. As its beautiful feature like Mt. Fuji, it is also known as Satsuma-Fuji.


Our accommodation was a small family run ryokan famous for its hot spring baths (which I had really missed living in the UK). From Ibusuki we visited Kagoshima city where we stopped at Shiroyama (famous for its views of Sakurjima), Isoteien (Iso gardens) which were beautiful in bloom and ate Shirokumakun (a famous local shaved ice desert known across Japan) because that is what you do when you are Japanese and visit Kagoshima!

All in all a successful trip to a beautiful part of Japan. Thankfully we didn’t hear a grumble from the volcano! I highly recommend a visit as it makes fantastic use of the Japan Rail Pass and is now so close to Honshu thanks to opening of the new line. Unfortunately we didn’t have time to visit the island of Sakurajima itself where you can view the volcano close up which I will be doing on my next visit as I hear it is quite spectacular.

 

 

 

It’s a Dogs Life in Japan!


People on my trips often comment on how few dogs they see in Japan – by that I think they mean what they might consider as “real” dogs; Red Setters with dribbling jowls bounding across parkland to fetch a ball, Labradors rolling around in the grass, perhaps even the ugly and menacing presence of the Staffordshire Bull Terrier outside the local  newsagents; rather than the commonly carried or carted-around yelping little creatures so often seen in urban Japan – I have nothing against Chihuahuas, by the way.

"Yes, Keiko-San, I do insist that you carry me - I'm a Chihuahua after all, and deserve only the best in life!"

Japanese dogs are possibly the most spoilt canines on the planet and some of those yapping little creaturemajigs certainly have the attitude to go with it – and the clothing! This past winter was a long, cold one which saw the latest in doggy fashion ranges hit the streets of hip Tokyo. I have been here for many years but I just couldn’t help notice cooly-clad dogs everywhere these past months –  shades, lederhosen, dungarees, t-shirts, hair bands, bows, shoes, Hello Kitty jackets – you name it, someone’s dog was wearing it!

Many of the local pooches even seem to have lost the will to move of their own accord, being transported in doggy carts or special doggy hold-alls, which are particularly comfortable and convenient when tackling the insanely busy Tokyo hotspots.

Miki, demonstrating the driveability and comfort of the modern dog owner.

The perfect fashion accessories for the streets of Tokyo - personal hold-all and matching human porter

In the UK a dog is certainly considered part of the family, but in Japan, it may even enjoy the status of most important member – older Japanese women are often seemingly far more concerned about grooming their pooches and showering them with more love and affection than their own husbands! And the dogs age better for it! So it is hardly surprising that there are dozens of doggy salons to be found across town catering for the owners needs.

Keisuke, one of Harajuku's top pooch models receives a little professional grooming before a grueling photo shot

One for cat lovers - feline transporter with human driver

The one breed that never fails to attract the attention of my travellers is the beautiful Shiba (see below) – often described as husky-like and  fox-like in appearance, with the controlled serenity of a cat. Unlike many native Japanese breeds such as the Akita and the Tosa wrestling dogs from Shikoku Island, this dog is not attributed to any particular area of the country. The Shiba can be spotted all over Japan and for me is the classiest canine on the streets of Japan – even without the bows and ribbons! Not that I find other breeds laughable but…well…, ok, let’s just say that Chihuahuas don’t like me and the feeling is mutual.



Asama Onsen: Have bath, drink milk.

Hotto Puraza Asama, a 20 minute bus ride from Matsumoto station, has all you need for a relaxing afternoon soak: outdoor and indoor baths, a jet-bath and a sauna.  Oh, and a vending machine stocked with milk.  For some reason, onsen and milk go together like sport and Lucozade.  The cow juice is a rare treat - but it makes you miss Weetabix even more.

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Mad cows in Kobe

I am putting this blog post together just before lunch time and its not easy as it is making me incredibly hungry.

One of our fantastic Japan staff, Ayako Kiyono recently took it upon herself to visit a Kobe beef farm.  I am sure that you have heard of Kobe Beef, but these days the term ‘Kobe Beef’ seems to be linked to any meat where the animals have been reared slightly differently to the usual methods as I recently found on a trip to Cornwall. The landlord of a pub and farmer was feeding his cows and pigs on local beer and producing his own, “Kobe beef and pork”. It was nice, but it certainly wasn’t the real McCoy.

The real Kobe beef is produced in the Hyogo area of Japan and Kiyono san wanted to actually see what went into producing the finest beef in the world. She travelled to Takami Kobe Beef farm in the rural town of Ichijima to find out and here is what she discovered.

 

What is the Kobe Beef?

No cows are born to be “Kobe Beef” cow.

Only Tajima-gyu cows (special breed in Hyogo prefecture) that satisfy the specific quality criteria deserve the title “Kobe Beef”.

Roughly 3000 Tajima-gyu cows manage to pass the criteria and titled as Kobe Beef every year.

Takami san delivered this calf the previous night and is nursing it himself.

Who discovered Kobe Beef for the first time?

Surprisingly, it was an Englishman! Until 1868, Japanese were not accustomed to eating meat, but that year, Kobe opened its doors to foreign trade as an international port and Kobe Beef was eaten for the first time.

 How are the cows raised?

The mother and baby names are written next to each calf.

At the Takami Kobe Beef Farm, the following methods are use for their cows;

Cows drink Sakamizu water. Sakamizu refers to spring water that is used to brew fine Sake.

Cows take a shower twice a day. (Shampoo and treatment)

Cows are talked to by farmers. (Farmers check each cows health by talking to them)

Each cow has Japanese name and taken care very well by farmers.

Cows are watched 24h through security camera.

Cows do not do any exercise.

Calves relax. No moooving for these cows!

 Are there any problems with raising pure-blood Tajima-Gyu?

Pure-blood Tajima Cows are not as healthy as their half-blood counterpart.

Pure-blood cows tend to be born premature and grow slowly.

New calves are kept in their own shed.

 What is special about Kobe Takami Beef Farm?

Takami Kobe Beef Farm won the championship for Kobe Beef 2010 and the farm has an official license.

Normally, each process, such as breeding, raising, and fattening are done separately by different farmers who is specialized in each process. Visitors to Takami can observe all the processes that go into raising a ‘Kobe Beef Cow’.

The highest grade kobe beef.

Takami Beef Farm has restaurants where visitors are able to enjoy fresh Kobe beef for reasonable prices. Try a Kobe beef rice bowl (Gyudon) or  1260 yen or the best Takami Kobe beef course at lunch time for an incredible 3800 yen.

 

Takami Kobe Beef Farm is approximately a 2h 15 minute train ride from Kyoto by train. If you want to eat the best beef in the world and at a decent price…and see exactly what goes into producing it, then it might be worth a visit. Let us know and we can organise it for you!

 

10 Reasons why Japan is so great – No.10 New experiences

I am going to finish the 10 reasons why Japan is so great with another broad but a valid reason. Japan is bursting with new experiences for even the most intrepid of travellers. When you go for dinner, walk to the shop, get on the train and from when you wake to when you go to sleep, Japan fills your day with new and exciting experiences. Being so culturally different to the west (and most places in the world), it is just a very different place to be and no matter how old you are, there is an abundance of….well, just new stuff to stimulate your senses.

In my opinion, part of what makes travelling and indeed life so varied and exciting are the new things that you encounter in the world. I would say that it is rare for a person to visit any one country in this world these days and to encounter something new and alien just about everyday. For the visitor, I would say that Japan manages to do this supplying a vast array of positive cultural experiences.

Japan is a wonderful country and I challenge anyone not to come away enthusing about the people, culture, country, transport, food and more, just as I have in this series of posts. I have barely mentioned the magic of sitting in an outdoor hot spring bath overlooking the snow covered mountains or staying in ryokan, wearing yukatta and being on the receiving end of some of the finest and friendliest hospitality in the world or the impressive traditional festivals with their mikoshi parades, yukatta-clad girls and fundoshi-wearing guys, fireworks, food and plenty of sake. These are the more obvious differences in Japan and are each worth a blog post of their own with a hundred other things, but there are a thousand other little elements of Japanese life that give you little surprises and make you smile.

There are a many other reasons as to why Japan is so great but, if you would like to experience an enlightening country like no other place in the world then you should seriously consider travelling to Japan.

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10 Reasons why Japan is so great. No. 9 – Respect

Once again, this overlaps with other categories such as culture and the people, but it is one aspect of Japan that is obvious in every day life and deserves a big mention.

At the risk of sounding too much like an old man here, I think that the respect shown by Japanese, young and old, to the environment they live in and the people around them is a beautiful thing and is partly what makes Japan so great. It quickly becomes obvious to most westerners who travel to Japan, as this respect is rapidly becoming a thing of the past in some western cultures. In terms of the UK at least, it is very normal to walk along a street full of litter, passing vandalised phone boxes and graffiti-covered walls and to be given some verbal abuse by a complete stranger. Sad but true. Not always the case, but not uncommon. It is however, very uncommon in Japan.

As soon as you step off the plane in Tokyo, you will no doubt notice that everything is immaculate, from the outfits warn by staff to the litter-free walk ways that lead you through customs. Fortunately, this doesn’t stop at the airport and continues as you head on to the train platforms and then on to the train – not a bit of chewing gum on the seat to sit on or broken vending machines on the platform. It continues throughout Japan. You can even see the poor old homeless people on the banks of the Sumida river in Tokyo sweeping up around their shelters and even taking their shoes off as they enter their boxes. You may be forgiven for thinking that all the pretty over packaging on goods would be ideal for littering the streets as people chomp though their Pocky or Crunky chocolate bars, but no! Litter is deposited in the correct recycling bins or held on to until a bin becomes available. This is not just the older men and women in society, but it goes for the children and teenagers alike. Refreshing I think you’ll agree and how it should be. As we say in the West, don’t ‘dirty’ your own doorstep – it would be so much nicer if people practised this like they do in Japan.

This is all down to the people, the culture and the Japanese Shinto religion which promotes a respect for the surrounding environment and the spirits that exist in it and therefore a respect for each other and local community, young and old. To be born Japanese is to be born Shinto and it breeds a certain way of thinking and acting. The cleanliness and respect for the local environment, community and other people is blatant to see for any visitor to Japan and is another reason why Japan is so great.

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10 Reasons why Japan is so great – No.8 Contrasts

Having already mentioned the fact that culture and tradition are so prevalent in everyday life everywhere in Japan this is pretty similar but worth a mention on its own I think.

Japan is a working synchronisation of old and new which is witnessed everywhere, but especially so in some of the big cities. I don’t think that there is anywhere else in the world where this contrast is so obvious and no matter how big or small, adds to the overall Japan experience. This contrast is one of the reasons why Japan is so great.


When planning a trip for people travelling for the first time to Japan, there are quite a few people who say something like, “I want to experience culture and tradition, but am not too bothered about spending time Tokyo – it’s a just a big city”…..it’s not JUST a big city….well it is, but it is here where you begin to notice the differences. There are many super hi-tec elements to Tokyo with its sleek skyscrapers, neon lights and trains that pass you overhead and underground. However, you will also find traditional areas such as Asakusa built around the Sensoji Temple or the quiet Shibamata district with single-rise wooden buildings, traditional shops and small shrines or the old fashioned Arakawa tram system that runs through Tokyo’s Otsuka district to name some of the more obvious differences.

One of the biggest contrasts to hit me, was when buying a gadget in an electronics store in Japan. This may not happen so often in the more popular districts of Tokyo, but you can still head into a small electronics stores and buy the latest electronic device.When it comes to making payment, the shopkeeper may tot up your bill on an abacus or tap in a figure to a big fat-fingered calculator. Meanwhile, the shop is being kept warm by a kerosene heater which is also being used to heat up a little kettle of water for the next cup of green tea. You know that there is the capability for a register to scan a bar code and bring up the price or a radiator/air-con device to heat up the room and a kettle that plugs into the mains….but it is kind of nice to see and seems right somehow. It seems very Japanese.

This is just one example of how Japan is full of the traditional and the modern living side-by-side and working well. It is quite cute in a way and is one of the reasons in my mind as to why Japan is so great.

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10 Reasons why Japan is so great – No.7 Japan just does things better

I have already mentioned the culture which plays a part in every aspect of life in Japan. We all know that things in Japan are going to be different.  So what does “Japan just does things better” actually mean?

What I mean is, in Japan they have a lot of the same things that we have in the West, but they just do them differently and in most cases a lot better. For example, everyone knows about the huge range of vending machines. We have vending machines in the West of course…..but not like Japanese vending machines! In Japan, they have vending machines for cold and hot drinks, hot food and much more. It is not just about the huge variety of goods sold in vending machines either, but about the way they sell them. The machines have slots for notes and give out change, they sometimes accept credit from travel cards and some provide wireless internet access. One of the biggest things to note about vending machines is there are so many of them, in the city and countryside and all unscathed by vandalism. Read more »

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